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Vintage Shopping in Jakarta and the New Wave of Indonesia's Hipsterpreneurs

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Vintage Shopping in Jakarta and the New Wave of Indonesia's Hipsterpreneurs

After almost two years buried away in Bangkok (doing that whole young professional thing in tech startups), I am updating my pick for the best vintage shopping in Jakarta. I wrote about Pasar Senen before as a pulsing, sweaty second hand market for the people (ie perfect for a poor UN intern living in an alley with goats) where through hours of digging you could find purple leather loafers for $8 and even designer stuff for under $20.



Pasar Santa is different. To shave the prolixity, it will suffice to say that this Jakarta vintage market has, in the last year, turned from a traditional derelict dump like Senen to a hipster hive (still shabby but given its new context can now be called "edgy") of a hundred or so tiny curated vintage shops selling everything such as old vinyls, posters, clothing, shoes, skateboards and more. The food area is awesome too with a whole slew of vegan and healthy gourmet options. 


Changing face of retail in Indonesia

The shops represent a seriously impressive new wave of young Indonesian entrepreneurs (hipsterpreneuers?!), emboldened both by a changing retail landscape and the never ending quest to beat monotony. Because in a market where there are not many accessible brand options (like China), it's too easy to show up to dinner in the same dress (what I think of as the H&M effect). 

The shops have curated vintage stuff that young Indonesians have sourced from abroad like Japan or Europe so you know what you will have is unique. And they take the pain (or pleasure ) out of hunting, adding value through curation. At a much higher price of course. My coolio cat Indonesian friend Sicilia has launched an instagram version of this because as she said, "So many people don't want to look the same as the mainstream."

Here, with an insatiable predilection for second hand bags, I bought my first designer bag by some lady named Diane Von Furstenberg for 1.5 million rupiah (120 USD). 




Even more interestingly is the consignment model most of these brick and mortar shops have to aid sourcing and selection. When I bought my vintage purse in the cool black shop with a random selection of shoes and bags, the young cashier told me I could drop stuff off to sell. Just like that, I could be making monayy?! Unless I'm completely out of touch with reality, Toronto or Paris kids do not have the same sense of empowered salesmanship that makes you think that anything is possible. Thoughts?

Anyways, it is quite expensive. It's 30% fee off price to sell in their semi marketplace and if it takes longer than 3 months to sell, you have to pay them 30% for I guess some sort of display charge. This is according to Sicillia, who tried to sell her boyfriend's shoes at the same shop. 

Now that I work in ecommerce, I am moderately fascinated with how the offline world is adapting. For young Indonesians it seems to be the smoothest transition, as they use digital channels to drive online traffic to the offline and utilizing all the learnings they've gained from the safer online sphere to optimize offline. Sicillia told me that when her shop, Quirk it Up, gets bigger she will be vigilant in getting more offline presence. Her strategy emulates what many Western brands coming into Southeast Asia are doing as well, leapfrogging brick and mortar and testing with ecommerce. 




I am super happy with where Indonesia's alternative scene is heading. I admit to being exhausted by the speed in which trends rip through the country, everyone desperate to jump on bandwagons to revel in the same things, effectively making the hipsters look (more?) like clones/clowns. This eruption of these shops is a protest for individuality in a country with the fourth largest population in the world and I love it. 

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How to stop loathing Parisians: 7 songs to help you make French friends instantly

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(Wrote this 5+ years ago, not sure why I never published it, but advance apologies for any anachronistic inaccuracies.)

You either love them or hate them. And justified or not, I know too many of the latter, mainly because they don't speak French but super mainly because French people can be a gelid crew to deeply befriend (and frankly, Parisians can be even worse). I love them (my best friend and roommate, ex amour and lots of friends being of the species), but ask any foreigner who has done a student exchange in France. How many of them had a solid French wolf pack to run with, more than the occasional drink or party invite? Not many, is my humble guess.



Somehow during my own time as a student in Paris, I was lucky to be a part of a super fusion wolf pack of French and Americans (and Canadians, Kiwis, Australians etc). En route to becoming best friends though, there were definitely a lot of awkward moments integrating with a new culture, some romantic faux pas, others between budding friends. But what was integral to every Parisian social
experience was dancing and truthfully, it was one of the biggest factors that helped break down cultural barriers and melt the natural frigidity between the groups. Because where there are no words there. is. dance.

As such, I've made a list of songs that I had heard at every French house party or end of student party while in Paris to help you not be so clueless in the country. They are neither cool nor cutting edge but they are timeless. It is what comes on at the magical hour of 3am: prime time for lubricated cultural integration. Where the French drop the captain cool facade and start to hug and drunkenly dance, what I call Wonderwall o'clock for anglophones. Anyway, voila voila, I hope at least some of these experiences may help your French student exchange or cultural integration where ever you are!

My First French Party 
One of the most heart gripping memories I have (that can jerk a tear or two depending on the blood-alcohol battle of the body) is the memory that finally made me feel like I was really in France and not some sock-sandaled tourist during my student exchange. The French may laugh at me, but it was while listening to their 80's classic, 'Les Lacs du Connemara,' at 4am in a musty old club to end the SciencesPo student party in the 6eme.

What I saw was truly a miracle. Everyone stopped dancing between themselves in small groups and coagulated in a puddle at the centre of the dance floor. They clasped arms in what looked like a barn dance throw down and started spinning and jaunting and switching partners, going faster and faster as the music increased. It was chaos, it was bacchanal, everyone was panting and sweating, laughing in sense of chaleur that I had never felt in Paris before that point.


La Crème de la Crème - Basically what being an international student in France is like

I had no idea what the song meant (except that it was about some damn lake called Connemara) but because I had heard it before that was plenty enough to compensate for that lack of solidarity with all these, up until now, stuffy French students. Parisians, known for their cold attitudes and difficulty for welcoming non-French, lose that cold wall when you put on some rather these embarrassing tunes. My advice forever: Music is a powerful tool when you're an expatriate, don't ever underestimate its power. It's always the first step to breaking that cultural wall when in a new place. Make an effort wherever you are, it will change everything. Everything!

Enough of my epic prolixity, here is the list!




1. Alexandrie Alexandra, Claude Francois

Crazy disco, 70's dance music. Anglophone equivalent: MC's hammer's Everybody Dance Now? But less cheesy and very dear in the hearts of the French. With the disco revival, this song has recently niggled deeper into my heart! I wish Chromeo would remix it already. Du du du doooo!



2. Aventurier, Indochine
And my huge romantic humiliation learning about "le rock"

Holy mama. I had my first embarrassing, I-can't-bullshit-my-way-out-of-this-one moment in France thanks to this song. It was during le weekend integration (freshman weekend) in the countryside of Bourgogne. A handsome Frenchman named Florian, with perfect soft flowing brown hair of an erudite and light determined eyes grabbed me to dance. Fairly confident in my booty shaking skills I acquiesced. Little did I know that this was NOT North America and there was absolutely NO Beyonce booty shaking to be had. Instead, of grabbing my waist, he grabbed my arms(wtf), started doing ballerina twirls and playing peek-a-boo behind my back. I was so damn confused and felt tremendously ridiculous. Did I just summon the precipitation in an Indian Rain Dance? I hoped so to cool the burning fire that was my humiliated face. Florian quickly grew frustrated with me when I could not flow like a swan and mid-dance picked up the graceful French named Amandine, beside me. Painful.

What I felt like dancing next to Florian


What that was, was a French dance called "Rock and Roll,"although in English you must say it with French accent, and shorten it to 'Le Rock' to mean what they mean. When Aventurier comes on, you must dance Le Rock. There is no other way to dance to it.

It resembles American swing dancing but has its own very peculiar rhythm and style. If you are a girl, a French boy will grab you as described above and if you are a guy, a French girl will expect you to grab her hand when this song comes on, and more than likely you'll be super awkward, spinning her once and then rocking back and forth as if you were in a 6th grade school dance. She will be annoyed that you are not wielding her like those magicians Florian or Sebastien over there and will probably avoid eye contact next time this song comes on to find her French compatriots.

What can I tell you, folks? This awkward, epileptic phase is inevitable though, and you just gotta get a French to teach you le rock. You'll get it (kind of) and be able to do it to slower songs. Aventurier however is the song you dance to when you've graduated to a more advanced level of French integration. Soon you'll be doing flips and jumps.




And if you have no dancing rock friends, learn to "danse le rock" here. 

3. Ces soirees la, Yannick

The song that pu le fromage it's hard to take it seriously. Nonetheless, over time you feel a sense of endearment and ebullience when it comes on singing about a good night of party with friends!


4. Je t'emmene au vent, Louise Attaque

Another great song to dance le rock. Something you'll hear if you hang out at Chez Georges around Odeon in Paris.


5. Les Lacs du connemara, Michel Sardou

As described above, this almost epitomizes the classic end of party feeling, the 'Closing Time' of France. The lights are turning on, it's 5 am and they want you to leave. They would put this on to tire us out but we would rock out hard, kicking those feet in our rotating dancing circle and not tired enough to stop anything ever. They stop the music eventually though. Everyone is happy and we go and grab kebabs at chatelet (a must do in Paris after the party).


6. Femme Liberee, Cookie Dingler

Learn the chorus to this song. If it comes on the radio or in karaoke it is an instant crowd hit! Best friend maker alert!

7. Girlfriend, TTC

Neither beautiful nor charming, this song is a dirty and offensive rap. Nonetheless, French boys seem to have some sort of male bonding over this song and will get on the couch and start trying to rap together rap lyrics which they all know by heart. You will have no idea what they are saying, but if you are a girl, trust me it's not flattering. It's a response to Yelle's Je Veux te Voir.

 

Extra
Won't help your integration, but this is a nostalgic gem.

Rue de L'abricot-France Gall

Her music is from a beautiful and revolutionary time in France, the 60's and 70 but you would not know it. She sounds like a modern indie artist with a vintage feel. France Gall was definitely ahead of her time and belted out so many good ones. Everyone has their France Gall fav', this one is mine. I even made a video to it!




Conclusion

These songs are as timeless as the Beatles, Barbie Girl and the Macarena. During my student exchange in Paris, learning the cheesy songs that locals got groovy to seriously helped me feel less like a Canadian girl without a clue in a city of known for its cold snobiness. It's amazing how people open up over music that makes them feel good or remind them of better times. These songs helped me through France, but it's true for each country! Feel free to share the ones that helped you out of your awkward expat stage or if I'm missing any?

Thanks for reading, hope your experience will be less painful (but more awesome) than mine was.

Let the good times roll


These 4 links may help you if you're living in Paris

Stupid Shit French People Say: 7 Ways French Will Ruin Your English


Indie Guide to Partying: Don't Party Like a Tourist


My First Month in Paris: This City is a Cold Bitch


Click here for More France Stuff




Hiking Ontario: Hamilton Waterfalls & Spencer Gorge Toronto Day Trip

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Orgasm for the eyes, yawn-worthy for the thighs


 

Day Trips from Toronto - Homeboy Steve & I's "Staycation"

 

After travelling Thailand's electricity free mountain villages with my old uni friend to erasing our brains on catamaran boat parties of Asia it was time to look homeward for some tantamount level thrills on my annual trip to the patria. It's weird, but I've seen so many of my childhood (and non-expatty) friends become paralyzed by the inertia of routine. You know, when one lives in a place for so long that they lose the sparkle for adventure and discovery simply because they are inured to its existence and availability i.e. death of FOMO for anywhere not typically "exotic"?! It's sad and disappointing for returning expats to see such a paucity of enthusiasm for adventure-- the very stuff that becomes the crack that keeps addict expats away from ever returning to normal. So it was nice to see that Steve (Toronto-based) was still up for Toronto waterfall hike in what he called his 2 days off from consulting a 'staycation'.

Bref! While I wanted to take a second to make recommendations for either newbie foreigners in Canada or urban couples looking for a quickie romantic weekend getaway, I urge against this Webster's Falls at Spencer Gorge experience in Hamilton (this may come as a surprise after reading my instagram post on it).


 Webster's Falls: Not Quite Niagara


Where we went wasn't the most outstanding waterfall of my life. In fact, I could have pissed more water than that leaking rock face excuse of a waterfall. But I guess not all spontaneity is rewarded by the good vibes that fuel it?



What the eff is this urethra of a waterfall?


(As you do) we sort of just got hopped in a car at 1pm on Thursday afternoon from St. George station and had no idea where we would go except that we wanted to do an epic Canadian hike and it needed to be basically not more than an hour away. Totally reasonable, no? No. Our late start was due to pure indolence (so I can't chastise too hard core you other lazy ducks) and it did indeed limit us from doing something more epic, which would have been about four hours north of Toronto. Nonetheless, while on the road to somewhere we frantically searched Hamilton Waterfalls and waterfall hikes on Google  and Spencer Gorge is what came up.

Epic beauty found! But hike difficulty appropriate for your grandma's arthritic knees

 

From the parking lot to the "peak" it is about a 1km hike on a gentle slope. From here you have an an amazing view of the gorge and the town below.  There are two waterfalls at Spencer Gorge. Tuy's waterfall is on the way to the peak and Webster you have to go on a separate nature trail. Sadly, the waterfall hike may be considered difficult only if you are crippled.


Undoubtedly, the hike to them is a pleasing stroll through autumnal flora and you can take a couple winding trails that are about 4km max, but in no way considered strenuous. The trails were all well-defined and without slope (I NEED EXTREME EVERYTHING, RAWRRR).  You could go off trail and sit off the gorge rock faces, probably perfect for young Canadian potheads or couples looking for a romantic place to lock tongues. I don't blame them though. It looks like naturally what I imagine people take LSD to try and achieve chemically.







 In the end, not all was lost. This autumnal wonderland made my heart cry out in splendor! Listen, World, Canadian nature in the fall is unparalleled outside of North America and this is the main reason why I, and anybody visiting Canada should choose this time to return each year. Screw summer! In Asia there are not even season changes! Only wet season and less wet season! The stark contrast to the eye of the yellow cage against a blue sky coupled with the powerful redolence of transient leaves and brisk air makes it a sensory experience you won't easily forget.

And as this Ted talk aptly explains, the most powerful memories you make are the ones that touch as many of the senses as possible (honestly, one of the most influential talks I've watched from TED).

A Fav' Ted Talk on making the best memories ever - Design for the Five Senses












 

My "Hiking" Ontario Summary for Spencer Gorge and Webster's Falls

If it wasn't for the epic beauty for the time of year, I would not recommend this for young, strapping adventurers who like to feel their hearts beat faster. However, as two old college amigos strolling and having a laugh on what Stephen proudly called his 'staycation' from entrepreneurial and consulting life, it was perfectly fine for 3-4 salubrious hours.

I know I have a lot of hella active adventure friends who explore the Toronto outback! Please suggest some Toronto day trips that are equally epic AND sports intense, if you know any better!

Yellow is the new black - Some music for your autumn hike

I imagine listening to Pulaski at Night and La Llorona while the cage of yellow leaves held by trees breaks into a flurry of magic that swirls around you while you twirl round and round.. Magic. If you're interested, here is my playlist of other songs I find beautiful, on Soundcloud. 

Oh, and if you want to experience someone who will certainly be famous, before anyone else does, check out this young University of Toronto student I saw auditioning for his opera exam on Philosopher's Walk, Ian Sabourin. I was walking to Trinity and heard, what I thought was the lead singer of Beirut. I stopped and listened and then found the source of the beauty was a live human and not a recording. I had to talk to him, he really lifted my spirits by way of his voice. He told me he was discovered by his professor to be while busking on the streets of Ottawa.  Here is young Sabourin when he was interviewed on Global News.




Indie Guide Bangkok: Wonderfruit Music Festival 2015 and

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When people ask if I enjoyed Wonderfruit , I just heave a deep sigh and look at my half-polished nails in shame. It's not that I didn't enjoy the music art festival (Southeast Asia's fresh, less commercial answer to Burning Man) but more that, my possee and I were not prepared at all. And it's all my fault. Hence the burden of shame weighing my head low upon mention of this magical wonderland


Listen, using my free time, a resource with ever decreasing amounts of freeness, to plan for partying camping festival weekend is not the top of my priorities.  So when my friend asked me to join their shanty town of tents, I figured I didn't need to prepare much except awesomeness and some sweaters. That was a mistake.

No tent or booked accommodation meant we had to be super resourceful (luckily we were three Canadian champions). Besides being an eye sore, that orange garbage mound you see above also served as a tent when a chair is under to prop it up. The weekend was a bit rough for my old self, but whateves, still loved it.

Anyways, this post is mega late so I'll just wrap up quickly. Wonderfruit 2015 was a great out of the city experience. It was in no way as magical as what I hear Burning Man to be - lacking volume and probably the right crowd (very family friendly atmosphere) - but something I would do over and over again and probably travel from around Asia to go to. If you imagine it as a weekend camping trip with friends, music and some art and over priced, albeit delicious as, food you will have managed your expectations perfectly. Oh and for a tech plug: the cashless payment system worked very well and was stress free. THE FUTURE!!

Follow adventure travel and life stuff at Snapchat: lil.fel or tweet and abuse me @LilFel

Some of the photos were taken from Cynthia. Check her blog, here.












Indie Guide to Best Non-Tourist Restaurants in Bangkok

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29 years of earth dwelling was cause for these crazy kids to fly in from Hong Kong, Singapore and Jakarta to celebrate. I was responsible for their culinary odyssey.
One of the greatest advantages of moving from Jakarta to Bangkok was that it was amazing to be in a city where people actually wanted to visit you. Jakarta, for all its high potential growth as Indonesia's capital, is still off the beaten track (and frankly a terrible polluted and infrastructurally crippled place). In sum, I rarely had friends come through town. Bangkok, on the other hand is a hub of fun and full of great places to eat that I took great pleasure in taking my homies to.

But hey, every Tom, Dick and Harry who he ever stepped a toe in Thailand will have their own restaurant recommendations. And honestly, the food here is an ambrosial a-bomb so you'll do okay almost anywhere you go. But of all the choices, here are a couple of the staples I've found that makes living away from Toronto (food court of the world?) acceptable.

For new expats in Bangkok needing to step back from spicy Thai food a bit I have listed key life staples, from the best sushi in Bangkok to bomb ass brunch spots with quality coffee and chic vibes.

What is this "best" I speak of?
If you have read my other guides you'll know what I look for—small, cozy spots ranging from stylish and sexy to hole in the wall mom and pop shops. What threads my list together is a nose-wrinkling disdain for overly commercial chain restaurants or mega mainstream tourist traps. I'm pretty obsessed with humble settings, authentic flavours, great taste not diluted for tourist palettes and at a good price. This is not a regurgitated list of Michelin Starry finds, but an attempt to be the homie that shows you their feeding grounds that have helped shaped my personal experience living in the city for the last 3 years!

Contents:
1. Thai Food & Street Markets
2. Best Places Ever
3. Brunch & Coffee
4. World Foods
5. Vegan Pick

1. Thai Food & Best Street Markets


Supanniga Eating Room
, Thong Lor or Silom (Vegan friendly)

Four words: best crab curry ever. Certainly the best Thai curry I've had in Bangkok with succulent chunky chunks in a rich tasty, albeit spicy, sauce. The restaurant is small, cute and made for young hip Thai people. Expect Issan food not toned down for weak paletted westerners and for vegetarians in Bangkok there is an extensive menu of vegan friendly Thai food. Despite its micro-aggression kneejerk of a name, this is the first place I take everyone who visits. Side bar: maybe consider reserving in advance if you're a large group as it has limited seating.

My fav: Crab curry with rice

Location: 160/11 Sukumvit Soi 55 Thonglor



Lek & Rat, Street Seafood Market in Chinatown
I love Thai seafood more than anything in the world, not hyperbolic I swear. Go to this spot for the lime sauce steamed snapper and make sure to get the spicy sauces to dip the succulent white fish into. I usually order it with a crab fried rice and a side of calamari or prawns. But more than delicious food, this is the ultimate Bangkok experience- sitting on plastic stools on a narrow side walk as tuk tuks whir past in a frenzy. Street food in Bangkok is famous and I thank my old journalist homie for showing me (you may remember him as the guy who took me into the middle of an exploding volcano in Indonesia). Chinatown is also a must see, it has old buildings and a bustling charming vibe of what I imagine the 70s in Bangkok must have felt like. If you are in the area go check out the quiet street of hidden bars, here, especially Teens of Thailand.

My fav: Steamed white snapper in lime sauce with crab fried rice

Location: Intersection of Yaowarat Road & Thanon Phadung Dao Street





    W District Outdoor Market
    A bit out of the centre but worth it if you want a good open-air atmosphere with live Thai bands and a variety of food stalls to choose from. Lots of affordable and varied Thai and western choices. I like to get the grilled Salted fish. I know, I'm obsessed with seafood, but seriously it's so expensive in western countries and so wonderfully abundant and cheap here how can one not take a stroll down gluttony lane? The burritos and oysters are also a good call in this arty hipster Bangkok night market.

    My fav: Grilled salted fish

    Location: Corner of Sukumvit 71, behind the buildings, 5 minute walk from Phra Kanong BTS

    Train Night Market (Rot Fai), Ratchadaphisek
    Haven't been here yet but I hear this Bangkok night market is a great bazaar style market with food and vintage clothing with an arty vibe. It is also a smaller version of the original Rot Fai Night Market.

    Location: Ratchadaphisek Road, close to Esplanade Shopping Mall.

    Cafe Bangrak, Silom (Vegan Friendly)
    Hipsterific, looking like an edgy startup office or Brooklyn cafe where you can enjoy an intensely good vegetarian menu and other Thai delights. Personal fav here is the red curry because it's spiceful and a glass noodle salad. Ate here constantly when I was a vegan in Bangkok.

    My fav: Mushroom red curry (vegan)

    Location: 4-6 Soi Saladaeng, off of Silom Road, Saladaeng BTS



    Sala Rattanakosin Eatery & Bar, Chao Praya River
    Apologies if this is a mainstream spot but it's riverside location and fancy Thai food make it the perfect place to take your parents, out of town colleagues or a date. The food is delicious, well prepared Thai food. Discovered there after my company's annual off-site dinner there with our out of town c-levels. I don't remember the price (too expensive) but it was great because of the sunset on the temples and wonderful Chao Praya River glittering as you ate!

    My fav: everything

    Location: Sala Rattanakosin Hotel, Maharaj Road



    2. Best places ever

    El Mercado, "The Chef's Market"
    !!! Go here. Delectable quality cuisine at an affordable price in the cutest terrace garden patio. Done in an unassuming renovated house, El Mercado has a delicious fresh bakery, wide meat and cheese selections and most importantly deliciously fresh seafood. The ingredients are chosen with an artisanal care you can taste. Their wines are good and go for 100 baht per glass for house wine. Recommend this Bangkok gem for a light French style brunch or dinner and drinks. Beware, it is closed on Sunday!

    My fav: Fish and couscous entree

    Location: 490 Soi Phai Sing To (Between Sukumvit 16 and Rama IV area)

    A photo posted by @elmercado_bangkok on 

    Uncle John French Food, Sathorn
    This place is a paradox. It's French cuisine done in ratty Thai street food setting. Uncle John was a top chef in a hotel, quit his job and opened this haute cuisine French place with a very Bangkok vibe. I was shocked when the CEO took all the visiting executives from out of town to this ratty place, but once we got the food, I totally got it. Recommend everything but especially the pan seared foie gras. There are 2 spots next to each other, make sure you do the French one, not European.

    My fav: Pan seared foie gras and duck salad

    Location: Suan Plu Soi 8, Sathorn


    3. Brunch & Cafes

    Nothing like waking up on a Sunday morning with old homies visiting to grab delicious brunch. Bangkok expat community is ripe with good selection. Surprisingly, can find decent coffee too!

    A video posted by Lil'Fel Rocks the World (@lilfelrockstheworld) on

    Casa Lapin, Sukumvit 26

    There are multiple locations but this one is big and has the best food and ambiance. It has a beautiful garden and delightful wooden decor and cute design. This is a weekend haunt for me especially for brunch or when I want to lounge around for hours working because of the cozy and cuteness. More importantly, they actually do decent coffee! The coffee brings me memories of Melbourne's strong flat whites. I always go for the poke tuna salad or pumpkin quinoa salad when I'm trying to infuse health into a vice filled weekend. They have great eggs and juice too! The place is home to hi-so (high society) Thais and young professionals.


    My fav: Flat white coffee, tuna poke salad and pumpkin quinoa

    Location: 300 meters down Sukumvit 26, Phrom Pong BTS

    Cafe Tartine, Soi Ruam Rudee
    This is the Bangkok brunch spot because the legit French bakery that seduces with fresh croissants, delightful pain au chocolats, as well as charcuterie platters and an eggs florentine to kill for. They serve the always good, albeit expensive, Illy coffee to tap that Saturday morning caffeine into the veins. It's a cool and maybe sometimes award community feeling there. Expect to see everyone you saw at the big party the night before on their/with conquest from the night before. I don't care though, I am croissant and cappuccino obsessed and this place always delivers!

    My fav: Shrimp eggs florentine, pain au chocolat for dessert.




    Simple Natural Cafe, Sukumvit 31
    So many quinoa options paired with super coffee and located in a small alley, how could this place not make it into my heart. Food is fresh, organic and tasty!

    4. Other Eats from Around the World

    Sri Ganesha, Sukumvit 13 (Indian, Vegetarian)
    I've lived a while in Bangkok and I love Indian food, so I can say with sincerity that they have amazing dosas (thin pancake with curries inside). My fav is the Mysore masala dosa and I always get the special South Indian style samosas. Oh yea, it's also vegetarian! Don't let that scare the carnivorously inclined because the food is so tasty you won't notice.

    My fav: Mysore masala dosa with South Indian style samosas

    Location: Sukumvit Suites Building on Sukumvit 13, Nana BTS


    ISAO, Sukumvit 31 (Sushi)
    When you're craving Toronto / US style maki and sushi rolls, this is my #1 sushi spot. Not super cheap though.

    Location: 5 Sukumvit 31


    Bamboo Lebanese Food, Sukumvit 3 (Vegan friendly)
    My go to for the least touristy and super sketchy but legit as Lebanese food. Of the many on Soi Arab this one stands out for its super tasty beef schwarma, home made baba ganoosh, falafel a for the vegans. They also serve Russian and Uzbec food. Great place to people watch the crazy sleazy fat dudes and smoke sketchy sheesha. It's seediness epitomises the Bangkok underbelly and I love it!

    My fav: Falafel sandwich, beef shwarma with a side of baba ganoush

    Location: Soi Nana, Nana BTS

    Top Vegan Pick in Bangkok


    May's Veggie Home, Sukumvit 16
    BEST MASSUMAN CURRY ALERT! Vegan Thai and western food here. Personal favs are the massuman curry (my meat loving friends even come to may for this, it's that good), with brown rice or a May's veggie pattie is done so well. The fresh Vietnamese spring rolls are also winners. But to be honest, all the Thai curries are scrumptious!

    My fav: Massuman Curry (if it wasn't clear) and May's Veggie Burger with homemade vegan mayonaise.

    Location: Sukumvit 16, BTS Asok








    Why I Decided to Do 10 Days of Silence in India: Vipassana Jaipur

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    How Jim Carrey, Roses and the US Foreign Service Convinced Me to Meditate



    The first time I heard about meditation, it was in this philosophical film. A pillar in my young life, really.








    I spent my life thinking it was mystics, monks, my childhood crush Jim Carrey and kooky creative types like David Lynch and it basically gave you magic power skills. Then some years ago I started hearing about actual people I knew claiming to be doing this meditation business. I had no idea what meditation entailed except mind flying and sitting calmly for a long time. I'm not going to lie, I still wrote it off, thinking meditation was NOT for me. Me? First, I'm not a believer in anything metaphysical. I play sports. I am an extrovert. My hyperactive mind is part of what makes me, me. Plus, it sounded so damn boring.

    Then a couple things happened. First, a good friend would not shut up about it. In fact, once we were out in Jakarta he went to look for a rose to buy from some old guy on the street. I thought it was sweet, but unnecessary to buy me a rose because we were just homies, no need to try. I let him know as much.

    "Uh, the rose isn't actually for you," he said awkwardly, "It's for my Rose Meditation, a new technique I'm trying out."

    What? It took four years from this night in Jakarta to convince me that he wasn't just making that up to cover his wounded ego. But one of my best friends, Justine, explained that there are types of meditation that don't require one to resort to the casuistry of the cosmic believers and zodiac types. The brain and our thoughts can and should be trained for maximum efficiency, like other parts of our body.

    My mind creaked open slightly like a vast heavy door, but at least is was open! Prior to this, I had thought of it in the same vain as when someone starts talking about 9/11 conspiracy theories, you know? The final straws to blow my brain door wide open came when first, said Rose friend's father, who was a serious man, diplomat, all round rough, tough American man (not typical hippie) told me that he was convinced by the effects of meditation! It helped clear his mind, calm him down and make him happier. Second, another friend studying a PhD at Columbia told me about a lot of solid research that showed the benefits of meditation and mindfulness. Third, another friend, highly academic in nature decided to give it a whirl while he took a sejour in India. He said it was fantastic. Lastly, my little brother did it while he was in Thailand and it changed his life and outlook on life.

    The final impetus came when I could feel the shackles of my digital consumption habits. It happens to us all- we say we wished we had more time to read, to play sport, blog (...ahem) etc etc, but in fact we waste so much in microactivities online - a video here, a post there, a tweet there, but in the end we lose all of our "free" time. And I love social media and sharing, but somehow I had lost the motivation to write long-form stuff as much as I used to pre-mobile internet age. I listened to a great London School of Economics lecture that really crystallized my frustration. It said that our attention has become a commodity that is cheaply put up for sale. Jingles touch our ears, flashing banners catch our side vision, even smells pollute public spaces in an attempt to win your attention, that the newest luxury product is not a car or a watch, it's silence. 

    Silence. It took 29 years of loud, hyperconnected living to finally yearn for the luxury of silence. And discipline. I wanted to take back mastery of my mind. Especially working in marketing and reading about Nudge Theory, the seminal work of U Chicago's Thaler & Sunstein. It highlights how much human behavior is influenced by being absolutely thoughtless, from snacking on a bowl of nuts merely because they are in front of you to the ability to alter opinions by changing the nature of how something is presented or marketed. We make snap decisions in a vaccuum of information, and they don't always serve our best interests. I couldn't cut off the internet or social media, because it is too integrated in social and work life, but I was frustrated with the status quo and of course wanted to become a super human.

    So on January 1, 2016 on a Hong Kong rooftop on a cool hungover evening after NYE, Rose Boy mentioned above offered to show myself and our other friend Marco a couple meditation techniques. We lit some candles, ravaged the couch for cushions and moved up to the rooftop for some calm vibes. Being underslept, I was pretty sure my first "meditation" would consist of the special Deep Somatic Technique aka falling asleep. But a miracle happened and I wasn't tired at all.

    I was able to succeed at stopping the Blitzkrieg of thoughts assaulting my brain! And in the process of calming the chaos of this melon, I fell into a deep plasma-like river of bliss and calm for a couple minutes. I knew I needed find a way to figure out the meditation practice asap.


    Vipassana 10 Day Retreat in Jaipur


    There are a bunch of apps that are supposed to be good to get into meditation. Head Space comes up a lot. But I wanted to walk the path of my little brother and do a Vipassana. This is a ten day retreat of absolute silence with no reading, writing, gestures, eye contact and nine hours of meditation from 4:30am to 9pm each day (with breaks in between). It is supposed to be secular, in the sense that it talks about Buddha as a philsopher with a good breathing technique that empowers people with the ability to assess before react. It doesn't tread on afterlife and inane religious rituals. It doesn't even talk about chakras and that other mystic stuff that most yogies and hippies subscribe to when they meditate. It's really supposed to be the Marine forces but for your brain.

    So, (big news!) when I left my job of three years this year so I could go back to school, one of the first things I did with my freshly squeezed time was to head to Jaipur India to do the Vipassana Silent Retreat.

    How was it?
    When friends ask this question, I explode like an insecure chubby kid who wasn't loved enough who finally gets a hug. It was a question I literally cogitated on for ten days, thinking about how I would tell all of y'all. As I had no pen and paper to record the symphony of clear thoughts that bubbled to the top of my clear mind, I apologize in advance for just trying to recall by memory. But one thing is for sure. No one prepares you for how bloody hard it is. And this is the true raison d'etre of this post. So everyone can be mentally prepared better than I was.

    It took every ounce of discipline I had in my body to not quit and run out the door. The silence I was prepared for, in fact, it was so beautiful to be alone with an uncluttered mind, I could cry looking at the multitude of shades of green in nature and other cheesy sentimental artsy shit like that. What was hard, however, was how excruciating and uncomfortable your body is. And how boring the actual act of meditation training is.

    I thought it would be all plasma-river floating like Jim Carrey and beautiful thoughts when on break! But no, it is 90% of you sitting in a hot room that looks like a bible camp basement and loud fans and grey carpet, shifting positions on your sore ass maybe 5x every 10 minutes, forcing yourself not to keep staring at the clock behind your head. When you have this much time with emptiness, the minutes crawl like a tarantula exploring the bakck of your neck. It's especially hard in the beginning because you're not used to sitting all day. What makes it worst, even perhaps unsupportable, is that they forbid you to do any sports, yoga, situps in room, or fast walking. Your body is literally rotting from lack of stimulus. But that's the point. They don't want any new sensations in your body so you can meditate better. Quell the monkey brain.

    Key takeaway here: Mentally prepare yourself to have your body be in physical agony as well and to be bored as all hell until day 3 or 4. It does get better.

    The Vipassana Technique

    They actually teach you two techniques. The first is super lame and ineffective (at first). They tell you to merely breath, but don't visualize or verbalize any mantras or objects. They say that any other techniques are not to  be used because it will detract from the efficacy of the practical one. "Observe the sensations of your breath in your nose." You are told to do this from 4:30am-9pm at night. Do you realize how long that is, especially when you can't lean against anything, just sit tall like a Buddha?!

    The Practice: 10 Day Breakdown


     It was in Day 1-4 that I had my most serious crisis to leave. Here is the breakdown summary.

    Day 0: Sign Five Precepts to participate. No intoxicants, killing or stealing - I mean, I guess so. No Sexual Misconduct. A quick glance at the creatures in the room make it clear that there will be no temptation. The group consisted of 47 women, 90 men, made up a majority of Indians with maybe 20% foreigners who all seemed in mid 20s and 30s. The white girls had either bird or star tattoos or dreadlocks. There were a couple vanilla French girls and a ton of Indian ladies, who I couldn't help but think that this was the only way they could escape the materfamilias responsibilities without pissing off the family. Silence and privacy in an Indian joint home must be more precious than gold..

    The rooms are made for one-two people, have hot water (but no showerhead), a hard mattress, book shelf and good windows to keep out mosquitoes. Cement walls.


    Day 1: Pain and breathing. Sitting for so long is uncomfortable and breathing while focusing on air in and out of your nose. It is boring and your neck will hurt from the multitude of times you try to (smoothly) twist around and peep at the clock.

    Day 2: Breaththrough! Moments of nothingness from concentration of the nose and breathing. Can feel nose pulsing with sensations. Boom! Get too excited and unable to find that nothingness for another 8 hours. Create game of guessing the time and turning around to check it. Soccer leg muscles dying.

    Day 3: Misery and Sickness, Walking dead, monkeys. Meaning of life? Contemplate leaving. My mind is rushing wildly with miserable thoughts. Contemplate the meaning of life. Why are we sitting here suffering in silence when the world is full of adventure? Start to feel sick. People around me look like zombies walking around the courtyard on lunchbreak. Eyes are black, shoulders slumped. The monkeys that romp around the garden depress the eff out of me with their single mindedness- all they do is fight, fuck and play in between. Isn't that what humans do, but in destructive and more complicated ways? Why do we try so hard to pretend we're more than those goddamn monkeys? I fall sick, start crying about the futility of life and stay in bed for the afternoon.

    Day 4: My Way of the Ninja - A New Resolve is Found. Monkey's inspire. Still in bed wallowing in misery and mild fever, I drag myself for a walk in the courtyard. The silence has cleared my mind and I notice the 5 different shades of green of the leaves on the trees, bushes, surrounding mountain forest, flower leaves and more. The layers of beauty dazzle me I hadn't noticed before. The monkeys, instead of pissing me off with their monotony, inspire me. What makes us different from these monkeys, I thought, was a) our ability to appreciate beauty and b) our ability to be disciplined. I resolve to be more than the monkeys, that the best of what humanity is push ourselves beyond our monkey minds. I decide I will stay at the Vipassana and I will be disciplined, because, if I can't push myself and do this hard thing, I won't ever be able to push myself. I will always give up, if I give up now. I make a gang symbol with myself, lest I forget my resolve. It is two fists together over my stomach (or manipura chakra, for those who know what that is).

    Day 5: Miracle! Plasma space body. My mind shuts off for more than an hour. I stop looking at the clock, I am perfect blackness, flying through space. I feel like Robin Williams in Hook when he finds his happy place and flies only to wake up and fall to the earth again when he realizes what he is doing. I am careful not to get excited this time. I repeat to myself, "I am nothing. I am nothing." I allow my ears to hear every single bird called, and monkey sound in the surrounding jungle. I feel like a super hero suspended in plasma land with no body, only a gigantic consciousness that could feel everything and nothing. The bell for the break rings, I do not move. I stay deep in this moment for 2 whole hours. My feet start to get pins and needles and I eventually am roused. I am overjoyed that I "got it."

    Day 6: Why can't I feel that thing again? Depression ensues. Super excitement reinvigorated my resolve but to my chagrin, I was not able to get to super plasma land again. I could hear my ego ripe with expectations and disappointment but was powerless to shut it up. I sit the day of meditation in thoughts about love and life, sometimes happy, sometimes dark. My mind drifts to the last book I read, Jonathan Franzen's Purity, is replaying in my mind. A difficult time with a past amour, replays over and over too. I cannot concentrate. I start to berate myself as weak minded. I sit there, and allow my thoughts and memory to wash away the time..

    Day 7: Vipassana technique and the disciplined mind. I make a new resolve for my mind. I will try to be disciplined for at least 1 hour a day and allow myself to contemplate life and work the rest. I make a deal with myself and sign it off with my gang symbol over my stomach. I AM disciplined. The Vipassana technique is very different from the initial breathing one. This one focuses on scanning the entire body for sensations, and then neutralizing them. Not being excited or disappointed by anything you feel because we want to eliminate craving and aversion from our thought process, and that must start with the physical sensations of our body. Teacher asks us to try to not move our legs, to sit through discomfort of 9 hours a day crossed-legged. I use the pain in my legs as a sensation to study and neutralize. I've also limited my food intake to half a banana and black tea so I could use my hunger as something to practice my discipline as well. I've never been disciplined in my life. I felt a solid strength growing in me.

    Day 8: Hyper awareness and the meditation cells. We finally get to go into the pagoda and meditate privately. I am relieved for privacy and decide to lie down (maybe take a nap heh) and practice Vipassana, then something crazy happens. I feel my body alive in sensations! There is a pulsing, vibration all over my body, like it is buzzing in the middle of a church bell. I am hyper aware of everything and I am at a loss to comprehend what is happening. I dismiss ideas of energy flow and I think that it must be how the pagoda is built, channelling sound vibrations or something... I love the pagoda, it allows me to go deeper.

    Day 9: Several people have left. I notice that one of the beautiful girls with an intoxicating sexual energy had left too. It is amazing how much is communicated in a language that isn't spoken. The way someone walks, holds their head, catches your eye. We may have been silenced, but we were always communicating somehow. What I learned was how to listen and observe and to feel. To open new sensory channels to understand the world around me. When the dirt of our mind settles, our thoughts and understanding become clear. I felt my internal writer's voice able to sing with the clarity and sharpness of a single trumpet. I had never felt so clear-minded. I also learned how to make deals with myself to concentrate. When a stray thought would wander it, like a bee that slipped in through the open window, I negotiate with it and say, "I will play with you later, thought, but right now I am focusing."And like that I am able to shoo it out the window for a bit. I regret not being able to write. It was one thing my mind was begging for every day. I composed a song in my mind, so I wouldn't forget some of my breakthroughs.

    Day 10: It's over. We have a half day of meditation and we are allowed to talk at lunch time. It was the weirdest thing to break the silence for so long inside our minds alone. I almost didn't want to talk. Just wanted to be alone and write and write and write. But in the end, I was excited by the women around me and their journeys. We had to meditate in the afternoon, but disturbingly, that 1 hour of conversation was circling around my mind like an ominous storm cloud. I found it difficult to clear them out. My crystalized mind had begun to be tainted by the real world. I feared it would be a sign of things to come. The 10 days of silence was a luxury. That became evident to me. What I didn't know was, how would this hold up in the real world?


    How to be the Dumbest Person Ever Travelling India

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    Because being dumb is cool!

    1. Arrive at midnight in Delhi with no hotel booked, a dead phone and without an adaptor to charge it. Planning is overrated. People have voices. Ask locals for help. This is especially useful when they don't speak English.

    2. Despite having zero clue of where to go and how to get there, follow locals' finger pointing and mysterious head bobbles and take public transportation to the ICBD, Kashmiri Gate. It may take an hour and you may be the only girl of a bus full of men, but when did that ever turn out badly?

    3. Make sure to wear tight leggings. With a disturbing lack of women in public spaces, especially when travelling by night, it is a great idea to covet the heavy blunt stares of Indian men. Breath in the tension, girls! It's a whole new ozone really.





    4. Once at the dingy public bus station at 1am, continue to talk to people who don't speak English. If you're lucky, the ticket sellers will be sleeping and will give you a dismissive bobble that you can interpret as liberally as you want. When that gets too exciting, proceed to walk around in circles past rows of sleeping homeless people, contemplate laying next to them, until someone takes pity on you and buys you tea, samosas and biscuits.

    5. After an hour of this, kind biscuit man will confirm that there is no bus to Rishikesh at 2am and trust the counsel of Indian men who have gathered to help you find your way to your dubious destination. When they say that the bus to Hardwar takes you to an hour outside of Rishikesh where you can transfer buses, there is no reason not to believe them.

    6. Finally, board the gaudiest red bus with a half inch level of grime on seats and a door that doesn't close. You'll be free to enjoy the soothing honks of a bus gone mad, impossible weaving (swerving?) through traffic and high-pitched Indian songs for the next 5-6 hours, most likely to dull the pain of your impending death. They're nothing if not thoughtful here in India!

    7. You should arrive in Hardwar by 7am where a blue eyed mystic man will greet you. Do not be alarmed when he menacingly shakes a wad of peacock feathers at you and chants in deep undertones. He is most likely putting a hex on you. If you wish for the occult entertainment to continue, keep refusing to give him money.

    Note: You may be the only female again on the bus travelling alone. Calmly clutch your belongings and put on a polite but firm smile. Best to avoid confrontation when people (men) sit too close to you or whisper 'I love you' while you're sleeping on the bus. What's lovelier than waking up to a stranger staring lovingly at you on a public bus?

    8. And finally when you arrive in Rishikesh city still without phone, internet, hotel or plan, a nice rickshaw driver will help you find something in Laxman Jhula while he smokes a joint and insouciantly hauls ass around mountain roads. The safe journey will cost you 200 rupees.  Tip: Ganga View Resort is beautiful but pricey (3000 rupees per night).

    After nine hours of relaxing and stree free travel, throw your bag down and enjoy a masala chai for your first day ever in India alive! What's the lesson here? Planning is for squares.



    10 Years Later: Exchange at SciencesPo and How I Hated Paris

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    From the Archives: How I Hated Paris 




    Over the years I've been struck with the amount of foreigners and French telling me they hate Paris. They find the Parisians are awful human beings, the streets dirty, the service industry mean and dismissive and more. How dare they say this about my favourite city in the world? But I understand. Paris does not give off a good first impression. It's a place that takes time, effort and the right circumstances to truly fall in love with.

    When I first arrived in 2007 I hated it too, but not for the same tired reasons. I had never seen a place so perfect and beautiful and it was exactly this divinity that repelled me. Because perfection and beauty are two of the coldest bitches out there—cold enough to slow my pounding schoolboy heart to the sad and melancholic tremor of closed doors, used toilet paper and unknown love.


    For when you first peruse those streets with the low rise white immeubles, in a world that sparkles as if christened by baby angel tears you feel as if you've fallen into glossy magazine or a cheap postcard, inviting you to accept a visual promise that could never be kept.

    How can I describe this accurately to you? You could tell that capitalism and efficiency were the last things on the creators’ minds (for better or worse). As an old architect acquaintance of mine once told me, ‘Democracy has been cruel to architecture. The most beautiful cities were produced under autocrats.' Seems so. Paris Center does not have a millimeter of the dreadful dreary box buildings where they pack humans and offices like they do sardines, and the boring grid system and that was product of the boom of the 50’s and 60’s of North America.

    The fundamental problem, when I arrived starry eyed and without a clue, was that everything was beautiful but nothing was real. 


    That's how I felt anyway in that first sad month across the sea. Some may enjoy that cold postcard feeling, it makes great Facebook albums, but for me I felt claustrophobic and depressed, stuck in a 2-D world.  As I looked for an apartment near SciencesPo I remember just walking around Les Invalides with my mouth catching flies when I saw the shining MAGNIFICENT top of La Tour Maubourg (the grave of Napoleon) as I exited the metro and the Eiffel Tower peeking over the horizon on the other. All I wanted to do was take a jack hammer to the core of Paris' hardass bitch soul and bury myself inside forever. But alas my stimulation was limited to my ocular senses as I saturnly slid from one postcard site to the next.





    And while I hung out with cool exchange students that first month, like the smell of old cheese in a Frenchmen's fridge, the feeling of isolation refused to leave and got worse. It was all too much. The tiny winding streets, the hidden courtyards of buildings and balconies that all face each other, café’s on every corner with beautiful people drinking out of dollhouse size coffee cups, each bridge crossing the Seine is made with care and detail, the Eiffel Tower winking at you every hour through the darkness, lovers partout in the most passionate embraces that make old tourist bible-belters glare in disapproval; you see it all and your heart melts and cries at the same time and you wonder, ‘How can I be a part of this all, how can I make this mine?’ All I wanted to do was feel less like a tourist in this place I was to call home. But it felt impossible as an outsider who spoke passable French with a Quebecois accent.

    My misery followed me for the first while in Paris. I simply could not peel myself out of the postcard. I walked and I walked, I mingled with international student after international student and yet, Paris did not feel like it was mine. My misery was probably compounded by the fact that I had just left an old sweetheart behind in Canada, as well as the frustrating administration involved with settling down (internet, insurance, it was all so hard). No matter now though.  What's important is that the metaphorical old cheese smell did indeed leave the fridge.  And oh boy did it ever.  I had French kisses, fell in love with a French boy, I made some of my best friends there and I experienced the insanity and dynamism that Paris has to offer when you know where to look and what to do.



    Ten years have passed since I was an international student and I am thinking that it is time to return to the place that I have come to love.



    See Also..

      Indie Guide to Paris: Eating

    A Night in Paris or How I Tried to Get an Interview with Kavinsky

    A Day in the Life

    France: Le Mans and an Adventure Outside of Paris

    Get more photos and embarrassing and awesome details here.

    My Diary Exposed: Greenland Trip With Explorers!

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    Um, I'm Going to Greenland? (Unpublished old stuff from 9 years ago because why not)


    In the summer of 2008, the ex bf told me for our anniversary that we would going to Greenland because his dad is a bit obsessed with the north poles (yes, there is more than one pole). Also, there was a solar eclipse that we were going to see with a bunch of Scandinavian scientists and north pole adventurers, which was best viewed in the north. NDB. Waitressing a whole year to save up to study abroad in Paris was as adventurous as I thought my life would/could be, so NEVER IN A GABILLION LIGHT YEARS WOULD I HAVE IMAGINED GOING TO GREENLAND WITH EXPLORERS. Caps lock was not an accident. Pinch yourself for 'Is this real life?' moment.  Anyways, this was pre-blog in the age of real live writing in my (geeky gasp) diary. 

    July 27, 2008

    I can't describe how excited I am for this trip. First of all, the things we will be experiencing are unreal. Secondly, the people we will be travelling with are all exceptional. And thirdly, we be travelling in stylez. All of it makes me feel as if this is a dream, but in a way  I know exactly how real it is and just can't wait to take it on. 


    Was too excited to sound excited, but really,  I couldn't breath or stop smiling. 

    The Amour slash ugly partner in crime. 





    Wiseman: One of the great characters of this trip. An old Danish scientist who was so smart and always had something about his youth to share..‎"Look here... when I was young, I had trouble sleeping, so I opened up my french lesson book, and boum... hohoho"
      RIP





    Ibrahim. Another great guy from Dubai. "I'm not leaving until i've jumped into the water! Who's coming with me!?!" He was obsessed with skinny dipping. 


    Sasha, cool Russian guy. No one seemed to know what he did or who he was...mysterious.



    Mike McDowell: A real modern day adventurer. Goes diving in the arctic and antarctic in Russian submersibles, has a company that will shoot you almost to space. Crazy Aussies. 

    The rest of the team comprised of some French documentarians, more explorers and scientists. 

    And lastly, our ride. No roads between cities meant mad air time, baby! Now to start the trip. 


    Ninja jump next to glaciers!

    For Josephine: South East Asia 101

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    "I want to look back on this trip and think it was the best initiation I could get"- Josephine 



    French Stereotypes Party, Paris (I'm politically incorrect or..a Racaille)



    When you're a serial nomad, you become all of your friends' travel spirit guide. The constant flood of Facebook messages asking about cheap flights to Turkey, best party spots in Asia, decent hotels in Bali etc etc gets me super excited, because my friends are doing the best thing ever.  So, every once in a while I'm going to dedicate a posting to a friend. Cuz like, if one person is wondering these things before travelling, isn't everyone?

    Anyways, here's one message from my lovely and beautiful Parisian friend Josephine who just booked her flight to Thailand and has no idea beyond that. No worries, girl. We got this.  Jo and I studied together at SciencesPo, travelled together in Patmos and she is one of the people that have made my life in France a better place. Some people say French girls are bitches, this girl is just ol' bitchin'.  And while it seems she's freaking out a bit about travelling to South East Asia for the first time (justifiably), she asks some important questions that is advice I'd like to share with all my Asian virgin friends.  Uh..

    Felfel!!Please let me know all the places I shouldn't miss if I want to look back on this trip and think it was the best initiation I could get! I planned everything last minute, just bought the tickets to Bangkok and have no plans there. Should I get a backpack and a camera (do you think it's worth buying a new nice camera btw?). Let me know about survival skills, like what to bring with me if I'm gonna be backpacking like a hippie for 2 months but still want to look proper if I visit friends in Hong Kong or Singapore for a weekend (you never know, is this expensive?)GUIDE ME!!!! Also, should we go to BALI together??? xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

    Star gazing on the pier, Patmos Greece

    Having interned in Bangkok, travelled Thailand and South East Asia several times and now working in Jakarta here's what I had to say.


    Coucou Jo!
    Sorry for the delay, been trying to bash some order into my life!!

    Nice New Camera: 
    • It's a pain in the ass to carry around. iPhone 4 works amazinglingling. I'd buy a shockproof waterproof one because it's bite sized and convenient and you can pretend you're Kevin Costner in Waterworld. 

    Packing List

    • One pair of versatile heals for HK, BKK, JAKARTA WHEN YOU VISIT ME; 
    • Black tights. Covers you up in muslim countries, keeps you warm on cold bus rides, and it's light weight in your backpack). BEST THING EVER;
    • Travel Blanket. Steal the wooly blanket from the plane or have your own small fleece number. For me this is my secret travel weapon. Don't go anywhere without my Dog Blanket (its name. Lame). 
    • AVOID JEANS: They're heavy in your backpack and you'll never wear them. I'd pack one pair of pants and lots of summery dresses (great for beach bum and HK swag). 
    • Don't overpack. You'll be scared of getting cold so you'll probalby bring sweaters and jackets. Just bring one cool sweater! Shopping in Asia is amazing anyway, so you'll buy whatever you lack. 


    Key Places


    1) Vang Vien, Laos: Tubing on a river with bars and debauchery. Partying with Paulsen is NOTHING COMPARED TO THIS.

    2) Full Moon Party, Koh Phangan: Read my blog postings about it. Second most insane thing I've done in my life.

    3) Koh Phi Phi: Fun Partying in Thailand

    4) Pai, Thailand: Chill out, rent motobikes, check out the mountains.

    5) Hong Kong: BEST SHOPPING EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER in Shen Zhen.

    6) Bangkok: Chatachak Weekend Market is second fav' shopping place in the world. Indie designers, vintage, cheap things, souvenirs, everything.


    7) Gili T, Indonesia: Fun parties, cheap drinking, good crowd.

    8) Yogyakarta, Indonesia: Chill out, best art scene in the country. It's wonderful.

    9) Jakarta, Indonesia: I'M HERE. COME STAY WITH ME. I WILL SHOW YOU THE MOST MIND BLOWING TIME EVERRRRR. Party till we die.

    Flights

    • HK is expensive from South East Asia, Singapore is so cheap. Let's go together! 
    Don't worry about planning everything last minute. It's better that way.  Everything is possible. Can't wait to see you and Caro!!! Asia won't know what hit them, two Aryans and a lil'Brown!

    Je te kiffe grave, meuf!!!

    Ps. Didn't write this in the Facebook msg, but yes, let's plan Bali and Singapore with Kro!! When is good?

    Jo and Caro. IT WILL BE A PARTY

    Friends of the World! Am I missing any key advice for the lovely Jo? What do you tell your friends who are going to South East Asia for the first time? 


    PPS. If you enjoy this blog a little bit, please take a second to LIKE the Facebook Page and share with your friends! Enjoi! 



    Indie Guide to Berlin Nightlife

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    Berlinsanity: 3 Badass Clubs to Check Out or How my French University Rocked the Lederhosen off Germany



     To be honest, I wouldn't want to visit Berlin at all. This is one of the few cities along with Melbourne, London and Chicago that I could see myself living in and verdammt loving it.  From my brief student weekend there with SciencesPo, my Frenchie university, I fell in love with the affordable, edgy and badass debauchery that pervaded its nightlife. I know in my last post about German stereotypes I mocked the people to no end, but despite their quirks, Berlin seems exceptionally ow-some.




    Seriously, it holds something irresistible that I haven't seen elsewhere. If Paris' nightlife is a classy lady holding many secrets, Berlin is more your carefree hot art house girl, the kind of girl this blog would be besties with (high-pitched girl squeal eeeh!*). London vibes similarly, but because everything is so frackin' expensive it's rather stressful to truly let loose there. Berlin and Jakarta would essentially hate each other-- Jakarta nightlife being that nouveau riche girl with fancy designer bags that her daddy bought her and no clue how to ride a subway. Ugh. While we're playing this city-as-chicks game, Toronto is the younger teen sister  trying to figure out who she is. She has so much going on, it's hard to define her yet.

    Cool apartment turned club in East Berlin. Thanks to Paris music man, Hugo for showing us

    If you are sensing awkward girl-crushing-on-non-human vibes then you're correct. It's mainly because when in Berlin I was blown away by some of the best museums I have ever seen. I'm not a museum junkie or anything, but the Modern Art Museum and the Holocaust Museums blitzkrieged my brain with whoah bombs. They were interactive and bled of history that touched my herz. For partying we headed out to some apartment club thing with graffiti on the walls in East Berlin to see Boys Noize and French electro label Institubes. From only a mere few days there, Berlin showed me parts of herself that even after wining and dining this Jakarta biatch, I am yet to find here.


    Anyways, here's a mini Indie Guide to Berlin Nightlife. These are the clubs I'm going to check out when I go back, recommended by the ex amour and other trusted friends. If you've been, tell me what you think! And please, help with cool recommendations!

    Panorama/ Berghain: While this place may look like a holocaust memorial site, it really is the entrance to one of the best nightclubs in Berlin thanks to amazing resident DJ's, techno and house music and parties that don't end till Saturday afternoon. If you are too naive (don't blame you) to know what long ass parties like that means then it may not be your scene, mainly because of this . Also, apparently they turn away lots of people at the door. Big ups to exclusivity factor? *Fart noise.



    Watergate:Located in the Kreuzbeurg neighbourhood, this is meant to have insane house and techno music, a panoramic view of the city and LED lights to twinkle up your mind. Don't know much more than that but if recommended by people I love to party with then I seriously can't wait to ch-check it out.

    Kater Holzig

    And..
    Reason 1 Million to Study in France




    This is our weekend trip to Berlin, on our way to the club racing to make the metro.


    More Berlin music..

    Jeez, I didn't think my hyperactive soul could ever be satiated by minimal music but I think the Berlin scene is wiggling its way into my heart and happily hanging out there. Thanks Sascha for sending me the recommendation!



    Indie Guide Jakarta Arts: Salihara Theater

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    Finding the Art Scene in Jakarta with this Hip, Cozy Theater 




    Hey everyone, this post is a celebration to having discovered something mildly cool in Jakarta called Salihara Theater. This is a neat little joint that screens silent movies and gets bands to play a live soundtrack over it. Tonight I watched my first silent called Nosferatu, the story of Count Dracula getting bored of his boring Eastern European crib and looking to get himself some city ass. Unfortunately, the neighbours weren't really down with his neighbourhood integration, mainly because he travels with packs of rats and coffins of dirt, also he eats people. Not terribly terrifying but still a cool film and interesting use of music played live by French Band, Zone Libre. I'm into the concept, but personally thought they could have used their crescendos in a mega more evocative way. And besides, Edward Cullen will always be my numba one vampire stunna (joking, hello).

    Bref, if you are starving for some alternative culture in the city of nouveau riche/mind blowingly mainstream entertainment scene, despair not! I'm not saying I'm above Blockbuster films and shaking my ace to Moves Like Jager, but sometimes you need to change it up to avoid lunacy.

    Salihara Theater also does awesome arty cool things like poetry readings, book launches, adapted plays and more. The crowd is a mix of international people and rockin' Indonesians too. Boom.

    Tickets generally go for Rp.50,000 general/ Rp. 25,000 student

    Directions:
    In south Jakarta next to Pasar Mingu, on Jalan Salihara.
    16 Jl. Salihara

    Indie Guide Thailand: Koh Phi Phi

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    Backpacking the Islands: Drink your Face off in Paradise 


    Is Phi Phi for Me (Me)? 

    There are only 3 reasons to come to the Thai island of Koh Phi Phi. You either want to a) rip yourself off with overpriced diving b) pretend to be Leo and fatten up your FB photo count with The Beach albums that no one cares about or c)  drown your face in buckets of Thai whiskey, sleep all day and then do it again, repeat, repeat, repeat.


    From my scientific research based wholly on personal affinities and anecdotal evidence, I've concluded that 83% of people come because of the insane party vibe. They then partake in other more wholesome activities merely to avoid being the King of Absolute Waste-Casedom slash validate their existence as  real human beings with feelings that don't reek of booze.

    Came here a couple years ago with mon ex amour. Loved it. Came back this year. 

    This spot on the west side of Thailand truly is awesome though. The island is tiny with no cars. Everything is jammed packed together creating an amazing village community with the streets lined with cute dive instructors manning the shops, beach bars, restaurants and Thai street stalls. The downside to these close quarters is that it is hard to escape the nightly madness and parties on the beach so if you are coming here with your rosy cheeked toddler and vacay fun, for the love of good parenting, don't.

    And like a lot of the Thai islands, the local culture has been eroded/evolved to feel more like a deep fried Euro-nugget rather than the vibrant Asian island I imagine it once was. Visiting this drunken foreigner Disneyland may be your bucket of alcohol, or it may not be. The one thing everyone can agree on is that it is outstandingly beautiful. Depending on your tolerance for inebriated 20 something year olds and your affinity for beauty, it may be worth a visit.

    For me and most people I know, it definitely is. But, hell, give me a couple years and I will probably be pushing cougar slash creepy-old-lady-without-a-life territory (recently turned 25, it hurts more than arthritis to see all these 19 year old Brits!)


    Phi Phi Friends that we met up with in Koh Phangan. Party doesn't stop in the Islands. 

    Anyways, everyone has their own recommendations on what's the best on the island. If you're my friend (Caro!!) and are brave enough to face daylight here are mine.

    How Long to Go For


    • 4 days is ideal. You can party hard and see all the sites in this amount of time. Personally, I stayed for 7 days and definitely started to get antsy and bored. Partying is groovy but I don't like just sleeping all day or lounging on a tiny beach that is shitty to swim in. Plus, there is no beach volleyball. Others have stayed 10 days or a month and just love it. Depends on what you're looking for.


    Where to Stay


    • Mr. Local Dorm. Really good air condition and an amazing place to meet people. Everyone from that hostel has rejoined in other parts of Thailand. The management is laid back and as far as Phi Phi goes, it's not that expensive. Bad sides? Toilets block quite a bit and are not that clean. Shower pressure not hard either. If you have a good budget and want luxury, this is not for you! The social aspect is its best quality. People I met there ended up all meeting in Koh Phangan and having more mental moments! 
    300 Baht/night.


    Cost of Living


    • Expect to spend 800-1000 Baht/day3 cheap meals + dorm rent + 2 buckets of alcohol) and then more when you want to do the fun stuff besides slink around Slinkys.  If we use chicken fried rice for our price comparison, in Bangkok it's 20-30 Baht on the street and the cheapest you can get it here is 60. In Koh Phangan Haad Rin it's 50. The cheapest dorms are around 300 Baht, whereas around Thailand you can get it for 100. Diving is more, alcohol is more. The reason being because electricity and rent is extremely expensive here. So locals are not trying to rip you off, but just the cost of living for everyone is higher. The price of paradise, I suppose. 

    Things to Do


    • Hike to the Viewpoint. About a 30 minute walk to the top of Koh Phi Phi. It's beautiful and not too physically taxing. Worth it for your Facebook vanity. Also, it's free!

    It's Leo!! Or..just my German colleague with a girl's name, Robin

    • Camping Trip in Maya Bay (THE Beach!). Most people just do the day trip with snorkelling and a couple hours on The Beach but that sucks because tourists storm the site like tweens at a Bieber concert. Kind of lose the dumbfounding effects of the raw beauty. Best way to do it is cough up the dough and camp out, singing songs around a 'fire' drinking and laughing and ultimately falling asleep to the waves and watching the sun turn the water sparkling purple to blue in the morning. Holy shizzle. TIP: The only thing I recommend is bringing your own sleeping bag and pillow because the equipment SUCKS. Didn't sleep a wink cuz my bag was damp and full of sand. Ugh, I'm a princess blah blah, whatever.  Also, if you're in a couple, defo do this! I wallowed in my (normally loved) singledom and wished someone would ask me to marry them. The Beach Effect. 


    Price: 2500 Baht with free meals, 2 free buckets, snorkelling.


    • Kickbox for Booze. Get in the ring at Reggae Bar and weigh the weight of your balls. Having no formal training and experience I merely wanted know what it was like to punch another person in the face. You know, the dreams where you try and try to punch someone but you keep missing? Well, I had had enough. It was awesome and hard and exhilarating. TIP: Don't drink before hand for risk of puking (ahem, Chanine!). Even if you don't drink, you risk puking. Basically, someone is blowing chunks. But hus is the consequence of having your head beat in repeatedly. Watch my video against a giant butch British beast!



    • Lounge at the Rooftop Banana Bar. One of the only rooftop bars in Koh Phi Phi, you can watch movies nightly at 7 pm and/or get super mellow there daily. They sell stuff over the bar. The Mexican food is great for munching. 


    Things Not to do


    • Diving certification.  The diving is better in Koh Phi Phi but it is also hella expensive. It's about 12,000 Baht and that doesn't include your accommodation. I recommend doing it in Koh Tao (like I did) for 9000 Baht + lodging and then doing fun dives in Phi Phi. The island is losing a lot of business because of its high prices that are all fixed. Hopefully in the future they will realize that poor backpackers are not willing to front that dough.

    Conclusion

    Koh Phi Phi is one of the most expensive places in Thailand but also one of the most partylicious. If you are backpacking in Thailand for months or merely there for a couple weeks, this should definitely be one of your stops. There ain't much else to do there except drink and the things I've listed above, but hell is it worth it. Get in and get out quickly with some of the best memories of your life slash trip in Thailand. Bon chance, backpackers!

    And please, if you have any advice, recommendations on hostels or things to do, please let the rest of us know! 

    Music: Beachside Bonheur from Cali


    This is the perfect music for summer and beach-time bonheur  by Ko Ko. First found off my amazing Frenchie friends' music blog, Les Radis Sanglants, I have since fallen in love. Whether you are in Thailand, Indonesia or Toronto, Float brings the soul of summer joy! Cheese cheese, shut it and listen.

    Download: Float- Ko Ko.mp3 

    Indie Guide Thailand: Koh Phangan and Full Moon Party

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    Koh Phangan: The Non-Douchebag's Guide to the Land of Vice




    Thanks to Leo and Tilda Swinton, Koh Phangan was seriously ruined for a good 10 years of my life.  Richard's hate-fille assessment of the island in The Beach had me convinced that the island was infested exclusively with scum o' earth  like this guy


     Because of my barfbag man fear I avoided Phangan like I do second-hand smoke. I didn't need chubby Legend up there crampin' my styles! Only when I found out my friend from Bangkok, Coran, was DJing at the Full Moon Party did I decide to try give it a shot. Since then I've been four times. And not that there aren't a fair amount of said d-bags, they do not outweigh the sheer awesomeness you get from being here.  If you love party, adventure, and beauty this island has it all. Believe it or not, when you know where to look you'll find chill vibes, wonderful beaches and secret rave jungle parties. Best to go for about 4 days but it can easily be done in 2 nights or 3 weeks. Do not go here for a relaxed romantic trip. Your sleep count will average 2 hours a night.

    Through my guide I try to point you in the direction of cheapest accommodation, what beaches to stay on, how not to pay too much for alcohol and what are the best parties to get to that aren't just the epic Full Moon Party. It has become one of my favourite islands in Thailand, after Koh Chang, and hope this guide helps you discover the best of the devil's playground.

    1. Which Beach to Stay On

    Haad Rin Beach: The area that is the most lively and fun is called Haad Rin beach. It's where all the party-goers head for good time central. You have bars playing movies all day, every type of restaurant around and most importantly the Full Moon Party Beach. I personally think it's one of the best beaches in all of Thailand, with sports and beach volleyball everyday, beautiful soft white sand around your toes and a stunning scenery. Nightly parties happen here so it's best to stay in this area so not to risk riding a motorbike in the tricky mountains while even slightly inebriated. The downside is that it's not very quiet and romantic so perhaps not the best place to go in a couple, but a huge group of friends is a must. Taxi is 100 Baht from the Tongsala pier. 

    Bantai: This is the beach area right next to Haad Rin. It's super developed and where all the dive instructors, bar owners etc live. There are good bars and nice hotels. It's a good compromise between partying and peace and quiet.  Personally, not sure why you would go to Koh Phangan for the peace and quiet. If you are going to this island, experience it in full. Downside is that you have to take a motorbike through the tricky mountain stretch to get the main area. Upside? Everything is slightly cheaper. 

    Mae Haad: Do not stay here unless you are a) doing diving courses b) with your family or partner c) are an old grandpa . Don't get me wrong, it's extremely beautiful and there is wonderful snorkelling here. But it is far from everything fun and you will be spending more than an hour on motorbikes to get into the central area. It's perfect if you are in a couple trying to escape reality, but that's all there is- quiet pretty beach... how long can than entertain anyone? My recommendation is to rent a bike from Haad Rin and do day trips here for snorkelling.

    Motorbike daytrip impromptu stop to watch amazing sunset with the boys. 

    2. Cheap Accommodation in Haad Rin

    • Sunset Bungalows: Simple and quaint bungalows on the hill are the cheapest accomodation you can find in Haad Rin. The best part about it is that, unlike other places where the price rises come Full Moon Party, here stays the same. It has a wonderful view of Sunset Beach, a skip away from the action and the magical Reggae Bar and the management is amazing. Stayed there many a night. Tip: If you are staying more than 4 days you can bargain a cheaper price. This is true for many places. 



    Directions: Next to Neptune Villa on Sunset Beach
    300 Baht/night


    • Moonstone Hostel: Looks like the Playboy mansion on crack. Everything is pink and flashing but don't let that deter you. The facilities are new, air condition very cold, bathrooms are clean and they make an effort with the small things like blowdryers, hair straighteners, hot water, shampoo, personal fans, individual electricity outlets and lots of mirrors. Perfect for girls getting ready but not limited to the female sex. Also, there are speakers in the room that make it the ultimate spot for pre-partying! Bad sides? The beds are super close together and narrow and most importantly THE STAFF IS HORRIBLE. They don't speak a word of English and are quite rude. While I loved the accommodation I found somewhere else to stay, they were so unbearable and frustrating. Plus, lots of my clothing went missing. I wasn't willing to risk it again, but make your own risk assessments. 



    Directions: Across from Siam Bank (Purple Bank) 2 minutes from the Haad Rin Pier
    200 Baht/night away from full moon
    600 Baht/night during Full Moon Party

    Looks like hell for some, but really is some of the most fun you'll have in your life

    • Yan's Dormitory: If you are looking for a dorm, good vibe and good people I cannot recommend this place highly enough. Along with Sunset Bungalows this is my top recommendation. Yan, the owner, is a spiritual massouse and one of the most interesting characters you'll encounter in your life. Be prepared for live Buddha demonstrations in his special Buddha room, impromptu "organ massages" and homecooked meals that are included in staying there. The facilities are basic: Bunk beds, air condition dorms and two bathrooms, but staying with Yan is an experience worth much more than all that. He is a bit quirky but his honesty and good nature makes Yan's the best place to pre-party at. We put our own music on, got the paint and Hong Thong out and went nuts. During the day enjoy movies and a comfortable lounge vibe. I stayed for 5 nights and was depressed to leave. The people you meet there are amazing too. 

    Directions: Centre strip of Haad Rin hostel area near Dancing Elephant Hostel
    200 Baht/night
    • Fubar: Probably the hippest of dorm accomodation in Haad Rin. A young hot British brother and sistah own the joint and give it its groovy vibe. Jo is a DJ and belts out great music especially on Monday night. The bar is comfortable and full of lounge cushions and the people there are the best part. It's an oasis away from the tween ditsy backpacker vomit inducing types. Here, the guys and girls have good in taste in music and are just more interesting. While I've never stayed there myself, I've met so many cool people here and spent many nights drinking and dancing that I'm not sure why I haven't stayed yet. I have seen the place though: clean, cool, solid beds and clean bathrooms. Also, extremely close to Sunset Beach!

    Directions: Sunrise Beach
    200 Baht/night


    DJ and Owner Jo at Fubar for Monday Sessions

    3. Best Parties and Bars 
    • Full Moon Party. Hands down of the CRAZIEST PARTIES OF MY LIFE. I do not say this lightly, it is top three. Imagine a kilometre of beach lined with 40,000 people, everyone covered in neon paint, ridiculous headbands and pumped to have the best night of their lives. It's not for everyone, like grandmas. Something you need to experience once in your life. 
      • Tip: The afterparties, as you see in the video below are wayy cooler than the party itself. Drink Thai Redbull and prepare yourself for a big one (Do: Mellow Mountain for sunrise and Fubar after). The other thing I have to say is that there is so much more to Koh Phangan than the Full Moon Party. Word on the street is that the parties leading up to and after FMP are the best. Below I've listed them. 
      • Scam alert:Sometimes they try to charge you to enter. Don't pay, find another way in. 

    • Monday: Monday Sessions at Fubar. If you're sick of One Direction, head here for cute DJs bustin' out badass house and electro every Monday night. One of my fav' nights in Koh Phangan. Check the video above to see Jo and Fubar at the end. 
    • Friday: Guy's Bar is a rave in the jungle. You have to take a boat from Sunrise beach to get there, which costs 150 Baht there and about 200 Baht back. Don't pay more than that and go with a big group of people. This is a party full of house and trans music. It's a neat experience to dance in a jungle but beware! It's a very special scene there with most people dancing with water bottles in their hands and buying very few drinks. Everything is available over the bar and one reason this party is sought after. While this may seem risky in Thailand, the bars that decide to sell anything besides alcohol take special precautions to pay off the police to stay away. 
    • Saturday and Thursday: Eden Jungle party. Saturday is a daytime party and Thursday is in the night. It's near where the Yoga retreat is so you get lots of hippie, ali baba pant types dancing here, but also the locals of the island. 
    • Reggae Bar: A little hidden gem of a bar away from the main action on Sunset beach. This bar has fluo writing all over the walls full of inspirational messages written by people on magical trips and a view overlooking the water. Go here to chill out Rasta or magical styles or for a nice beer along the sea! Good people, vibe and music but don't come here to dance. 

    Dancing on a table at Half Moon Party, NBD. 
    • Half Moon Party. This party is amazing. I went to one before FMP and after and I must say the one after was much epic. The music is house/jungle and it takes place in the jungle, cool! Downside is that it's 500 Baht entrance and a 100 baht minimum taxi ride to go. People get painted up and go all out since they're compensating for missing the Big poppa of parties. Some people prefer it over FMP. If you can, do both.

    • Mellow Mountain: Same as Reggae bar for what you can buy over the bar and same prices too. Difference being that it is on the main party beach and with a mega wicked view over the ocean and up high. This place is a bit more popular and touristy but still stunning and fun. If you are looking to be closer to the action than this is your best bet. Come here on a night where you don't plan to get wasted off your face, say a few days before or after Full Moon Party.
      • Tip:The two bars on the hill are famous for magic shakes. It's been said that closer to the Full Moon Party that it gets, the more watered down the shakes' potency becomes (More demand, fixed supply = makes sense). So if this is something you want to try, best to do it before or after when it's not too busy. 
      • Warning: Don't leave the mountain with any illicit substance. While the bars pay off the police from coming up to the top and busting people, you will not enjoy the same immunity if you stupidly stumble on the beach with something on you. 



      4. Cost of Living/ Drinking

      Cheapest day is around 700 Baht. Accommodation is around 200 + (2) 50 Baht for fried rice/pad thai + 40 Baht for fruit shakes + 2 buckets for 150 Baht each. The only way you can do cheaper than that is if you eat instant noodles from 7/11 and cut out alcohol. Most likely you are not a mini girl and you will actually need to drink way more than that. Also, a lot of the parties beyond Full Moon Party require you to pay taxis and/or entrance fees.

      Where to eat? The shacks are on a street with Greenpeace restaurant. They are local food stalls with deliciousness and authenticity for a cheap price. 

      Motorbikes are 150 Baht/day. This is very cheap but be careful, they charge through the sky if you have even the slightest scratches on it. My German friend paid 4000 baht extra just from a few extra scratches when she dropped it. Be careful. The mountains are a bit tricky but anyone with a brain can do it. Seriously, it's so fun.

      Buckets are 200-300 Baht for local alcohol. Any cheaper than that than you are probably getting less than other buckets.

      Alcohol in the store 150 Baht. Get a giant bottle for 5 dollars, buy your own mixers and even throw it in a bucket for good measure.

      Warning: If you think you are getting a good deal they are probably ripping you off. Buckets for 100 Baht mean they are using local vodka or whiskey that they're hiding behind their bar and sometimes it's not even the real deal. Be careful to see if the seal of the alcohol is broken.  One bartender told me the vodka is usually fake. Thai whiskey is the best way to go.

      5. Things to Do
      Rent Motorbikes. It's scary but get over it. They're super easy to learn and as long as you're not a moron you should be okay. You don't need a license. Go slow, get used to it and rent your ticket to freedom in Asia!! Be careful, as I note above.

      Hunt Waterfalls. Go with the mates in a giant biker crew and check out waterfalls. Sometimes they're dry and they are more like water puddles. Still amazing and fun to get in nature.

      Don't go chasing waterpuddles. Bathing in dried out waterfalls still a blast. woo. 

      Snorkel in Mae Haad. On your motorbike trip go snorkeling. The coral is pretty cool, the beach is beautiful and calm. Provides a wicked reprieve from perennial waste-case feelings of sleeping till 2 pm and lounging on Sunset Beach.

      Go to Mellow Mountain During the Day. Best time to be there is when you can see the view. Whatever you buy up there is best done then too.

      Beach Volleyball. The reason sunset beach is my favourite beach is because of how active people are during the day there. The sand is soft and white, the beach is clean and everyone is either tanning or playing sports. Beach volleyball is pretty serious on Sunset Beach Haad Rin. There are usually multiple games for different levels. This is how I spent 3 weeks of my life. Enjoy.

      Follow on Facebook and Twitter for more secret parties, baller cheap hostels etc etc in Thailand and the WORLD


      *Thanks Shan, Grain and Ashlie for letting me use their pictures!


      Female Travel in India or How to Be a Big Idiot Your First Time

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      After grinding the corporate stone for three years in the tech startup scene of Southeast Asia, I decided to take time off to pursue an MBA (spoiler alert: didn't go). But my first order of business was to master the discipline of mindfulness. And thus began my Great Indian Odyssey with a silent retreat for 10 days in Rajasthan, tantric yoga for a month in the holy city of Rishikesh (tantra's not the naughtiness you think, pervs) and studying Buddhism in the Himalayas less than a kilometer away from where the D. Lama himself lives! Before becoming an ancient wise one, I faced many challenges traveling as a woman in India- absolutely not mindful of my womaness in a society still largely trying to come to terms with its gender outlook. Below is my guide to being an idiot the moment you step off the plane and first impressions of a country I have come to love.



      Not wearing tight clothes is one key to not being dumb. (Vintage cuban shirt from Bangkok's Chatuchak market, $3.3 USD btw omg)

      Getting to Rishikesh from Delhi: An Idiot's Guide

      1. Arrive at midnight in Delhi with no hotel booked, a dead phone and without an adaptor to charge it. Planning is overrated. People have voices. Ask locals for help. This is especially useful when they don't speak English. The only thing you need to know is your destination. In this case? Rishikesh because you're a unique snowflake who wants to do yoga on a gap year.

      2. Despite having not the slightest clue of where to go and how to get there, learn Indian sign language fast. This consists of varying finger pointing intensities and mysterious head bobbles. Once you have mastered the language you will learn you must take public transportation to the ICBD, Kashmiri Gate. It may take an hour and you may be the only girl of a bus full of men, but when did that ever turn out badly?

      3. Wear your tightest clothes. With a disturbing lack of women in public spaces, especially when travelling by night, put unnecessary effort in coveting the heavy blunt stares of Indian men. Breath in the fresh air of repressed sexuality, girls! It's a whole new ozone really.

      4. Once at the dingy public bus station at 1am, continue to converse with more people who don't understand English. If you're lucky, the ticket sellers will be sleeping and will give you a dismissive bobble. The Sleeping Bobble may be interpreted as liberally as you want. When extracting info from sleeping men gets too exciting, proceed to walk around in circles past rows of more sleeping people. Contemplate laying next to them, until someone takes pity on you and buys you tea, samosas and biscuits.

      5. After an hour of local bus station loitering and fruitless Rishikesh inquiries, accept the biscuit from a kind biscuit man who uses said biscuits to (successfully) soften the news that there is in fact no bus to Rishikesh at 2am. Embrace the sense of dread that looms over your exhausted body. This vulnerability look, coupled with your butt forming lulu lemons, will attract a counsel of Indian men who will gather to help you find your way. Trust them when they say that Hardwar takes you to an hour outside of Rishikesh where you can transfer buses. They say too many choices make you unhappy, right? You're laughing now because right now you have none.

      6. Finally, board the gaudiest red bus with a half inch level of grime on seats and a door that doesn't close. You'll be free to enjoy the soothing honks of a bus gone mad, impossible weaving (swerving?) through traffic and high-pitched Indian songs for the next 5-6 hours. Use the chaos and your impending death as a way to get a head start on Buddhism ideals of transience that you had come to India to learn in the first place. Don't try to read the New Yorker's article about Islam erasure in Indian poetry because you'll puke.

      7. Arrive early morning alive and reborn really where a blue eyed mystic man will greet you. Do not be alarmed when he menacingly shakes a wand of peacock feathers at you and chants in deep undertones. May be a hex or he may just be a Harry Potter fan. If you wish for the occult entertainment to continue, keep refusing to give him money while avoiding eye contact/ his spells.



      Important Note: You may be the only female again on the bus travelling alone. Calmly clutch your belongings and put on a polite but firm smile. Best to avoid confrontation when people (men) sit too close to you or whisper 'I love you' while you're sleeping on the bus. What's lovelier than waking up to a stranger an inch from your face looking at you?

      8. And finally trust the high rickshaw driver who offers you a joint when you arrive in Rishikesh city still without phone, internet, hotel or plan. Laxman Jhula he says, while he pulls a deep drag and insouciantly hauls ass around moribund mountain roads. The journey will cost you 200 rupees.  Tip: Ganga View Resort is beautiful but pricey (3000 rupees per night).

      9. Nine hours of excitement and travel later warrants a nice meal. It may or may not give you chocolate rain belly and where the toilets may or may not have a seat and/or toilet paper.

      10. After finally settling in Rishikesh from Delhi as a solo female traveller, make a video about Rishikesh as a solo female traveller because you're meta like that.




      What's the lesson here? Planning is for squares.




      Graffiti in Indonesia: #throwback Interview with Artist Wormo (2012)

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      There were many things that frustrated me to hell about my time as fresh grad in Indonesia: the typical traffic jams, poor public infrastructure, and lack of green spaces in Jakarta, but its art remains unparalleled in the region (in my humble opinion as a six year standing resident of Southeast Asia).

      And as a 24 year old, I had the unusual and coolest opportunity to sit down with Indonesia's best underground artists to understand their perspective for my local art magazine/biz +sixtwo. I am sharing one or two here because I heard when you hit 30 years old, it's a time to start re-reading books and looking backwards for a fresh perspective, I heard. Currently, I am reexamining my opinions about Jakarta. More on that another time. See below for street artist interviews from the city that raked my patience but had an art community that kept me infinitely intrigued.

      An Interview with Jakarta Street Artist Wormo (September 2012)

      For the colourfully inclined, growing up in Jakarta can be difficult. The grays and beiges of city life just beg for rupture and graffiti artist Wormo, aka Arem Kaleva are part of a group of artists that are injecting colour into the public sphere. His work showcases vibrant neon colours, bold typography and the little monsters seen crawling about distinguish the walls of which he has tagged. Wormo is smart, well spoken and his street art is driven not only by his need to break daily routine but also from a belief in the freedom of public space and expression. Arem took some time to meet up with me and explain his work, his beliefs and the life of a graffiti artist.




      So, why the name Wormo?
      My main character is a worm and so Wormo. I started off by painting
      worms that eat the concrete. In Jakarta there are too many concrete walls
      and so much grey!  So this worm eats it down and adds colour to the monotony.


      What did you want to be when you were a little boy?
      I have always loved drawing. My family and uncles are artists
      and that gave me my love for colours. In highschool I pursued graphic
      design but I never thought I would be an artist. In Indonesia you couldn’t
      live as an artist at this time.


      What turned you from graphic design to street art?
      In highschool I did mostly tags. Then in 2004 my work partner thought,
      “let’s paint on the street!” We were both graphic designers and it was boring to
      sit in front of a computer all day. We would would grab a beer and just go to break the routine.


      Is graffiti art?
      Yea of course. Quality graffiti is. Even the tags you can see the quality. Everyone has a style.


      What's your opinion on the street art scene in Jakarta?
      Street art in Jakarta is going up and up after experiencing a slump post 2007. Before we all
      knew each other in the scene but now I see a lot of quality work now from youngsters I don’t
      know. Compared to Yogya, they’ve always had a different style. I think they were the first to
      paint in the street and it’s awesome there because it’s just more common to do street art.
      In general Yogja is more artistic, and now there is an emerging hip hop style whereas before
      you could see a trend of characters and big murals. Also, it’s better there because it’s a smaller
      city. Here you have to take a motorbike and taxi to get anywhere!


      Two words to describe your work.
      Colourful. Organic.


      Where does your international inspiration come from?
      Suiko from Japan, Main Street Killahs (MSK) crew from LA,  
      and CMK Crew from Boston. I think Japanese artist have a very
      distinct style because their writing and culture is so different.


      When you're not tagging walls, what's your day job?
      Graphic designer for Blitz Mega, movie theatre.


      Free movies?
      Not really. Two vouchers every three months.


      Is there a difference between graffiti and vandalism?

      For me both are important. Vandalism is the urge to put your
      name everywhere. But quality is important, and that’s where the art is.
      Graffiti is all about freedom. I also believe that since we see so much advertising in
      public space we have the same right as artists to display our messages whether it be
      vandalism or graffiti. Just because they have money doesn’t mean they have the right to f
      orce people to look at it. We also have that right.

      Indie Guide to Singapore: Nightlife as a Youngish Adult

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      Introduction: From Graduate to Real Human Adult
      When I first wrote as a fresh International Relations 23 year old grad, Singapore was at best disappointing and at worst a sterile Asian Disney World with no authenticity and soul. I (illegally) spat in the face of its perfection, feeling cheated and misled. How dare you say you are an Asian city when you lack the chaotic and affordable beauty that Bangkok and Hong Kong effortlessly ooz?  Singapore's biggest point of pride as a Southeast Asian oasis was my biggest point of disgust.

      Seven years later I'd probably jump back in time so I could slap old (young?) me in the face.



      I’ve seen the light. Forget my last post. It was the ramblings or an adventure starved, coddled westerner looking for a reprieve from stability. Asia was supposed to be a land ripe with possibilities, Singapore you could get arrested for chewing gum. I had just broken  from the shackles of university (but not student debt), climbed a mountain in Papua New Guinea and then expected to put on my nice western clothes, pay western prices for a beer to hang out with westerners? Forgive my young self, but it kind of beat the point of travelling across the world. Singapore for a fresh adrenaline addicted graduate was a waste.of.time.

       But I write to you today as a third-jobber who has spent the last four years in Bangkok, and 2 years  in the chaotic, traffic-ridden city – Jakarta. I've finally moved here. I make money, I read the business section sometimes, I go to the bank and pay bills and stuff. I’m AN ADULT. And yea, I gotta say, if you’re not on a shoestring budget, there is a lot love about this place. 

      Actually, I have become vociferous on the matter. You can drink water FROM THE TAP. You can breath AIR. You can walk OUTSIDE and not in a mall. If you dare accuse me of my standards dropping faster than my chances of getting married, I will slap you across the face and then quickly run to cover you in sweet, sorrowful kisses. You may be right, World. You may be right. Indeed, having lived in the most tumultuous, horrendously polluted city in the world has skewed my standards for what I like in a place. 

      But beyond my spinster level standards of city love, age and where you are at in your life will determine how much pleasurey pleasureness you can extract from Singapore. Graduating the lens in which you view the world from teeny Wayfareres to Madmen Clubmasters will help bring into focus so many more amazing things that may be blurred by your cheapness. When I first wrote, I wanted the craziness of Bangkok and instead got the Asian adopted cousin of Orlando or Ottawa. Now I quiver and bite my lip thinking of things like public transportation and non-creepy white old expats. Oh jaded Felicia, what have you become?!

      Anyways, I prevaricate.

      If you are not a debt ridden student, this guide may work for you. If you are, don’t waste your precious young dollahs in Singapore. This is a city best enjoyed for expats around Southeast Asia with a serious amount of disposable income and friends who live in the city to show them a good time. Come here for a reprieve from all the good things of Asia, for a dose of home. Things work here, punctuality is like actually a thing, people speak English, there are green spaces, lots, they have wholesome activities beyond nightlife like comedy and trivia nights. Prostitutes and easy women are not rampant, the men and women seem like the best of normal people, full of career and ambition, what more can I say? The Debbie to the downer is that this all comes at a price, a high one. Taxis, clubs, food are pretty expensive compared to the rest of Asia. If you've come from Europe then it’s on par so don’t be shocked.

      People say that, like its ugly cousins Ottawa and Orlando,  Singapore lacks a soul. They are not 100% wrong. Don’t expect Echo Park, meatpacking district or Melbourne, but as long as your expectations are in check you can have an amazing time here. But I tell you what, there is an electricity in the air that I don’t feel in Jakarta or Bangkok. It feels alive, like your spidey party sense is constantly tingling. There are so many interesting people doing interesting things and it's in the air. I can become addicted to this smell of energy and excitement! Jakarta does not have that. If there is a party, there is only 1 or 2 max and everyone you know will be at one or the other. Singapore, it is possible to be overbooked. Your social life is amazing. It is hard if you don’t know people, but anyways I’ll give you my recommendations of best nightlife in Singapore if you're into non mainstream bro-ey crowds.

      (Fyi, I wrote most of this post as a 25 year old but never published. 6 years later, my sentiments and love for Singapore remain true.)

      Where to Party in Singapore (electro, house, chill vibes)


      Dancing

      The Great Escape
      It's a party in a parking lot, often with live tunes and non-pretentious fervor. It has a great indie movie theater attached to it as well.

      Canvas
      This place defies Singaporean existence. It is grungy and underground, playing house and minimal music till 5am. Best part is that it is in the center of Boat Quay and has an amazing view.

      Kilo Lounge
      Most well known of the house, edm music spots. Always reliable for a good time and is in Tanjong Pagar. Open till 3am. I would nickname this place The French Nest. Shitty part is the $20 SGD cover.

      Ice Cream Sundays
      This is an event that happens monthly and they have some of the music and vibes I like the most in Singapore. Daytime, electro house music and sexy cool people. Check out the facebook page here.





      Tanjong Beach Club
      This beach bar is the epitome of Singapore Bro's Club - shirtless muscled dudes walking around with little puppies to bait model-esque babes. Nonetheless, on a Sunday you can go enjoy volleyball, beer pong and good vibes with your homies. It's a great daylight adventure, regardless if you're a bro or not. We like to picnic with our own booze and music a bit away from the bar itself.

      Senor Taco
      Salsa lessons every Wednesday for $10 SGD starting from 8pm and then a hot live band afterwards. I've recently attempted to become a twinkle toes with the lovely folks here and it is addicting! Also a great place for awkward dudes to dance with babes.

      Drinking

      Cafe Gavroche on Wednesdays
      Free flow rose for ladies on Wednesday nights in a cute French resto in Tangjong Pagar. Perfect place for a gang of girls to let loose! And if you're feeling super basic then you can head to Bang Bang club for 3 free mixed drinks and sloppy dancing (don't go till about midnight though).

      Native
      Everything is this bar, from the rustic furniture to the graffiti and cutlery is made in Southeast Asia. Good for an intimate night with close friends, a date, or where to show off to your colleagues visiting from out of town. They tell a story with each drink they give you and make their own gin in house. Recommend the coffee gin for surreee. Note: It's a pricey establishment. Notebis: Go to the sketchy karaoke place across the street. It is filled with SPARKLES and looks like a David Lynch film.

      Smoke and Mirrors
      Another classy spot, located above the national gallery. Has one of the best views of the city in the opinion of several friends! Drinks are also pricey.

      Employees Only
      This place has the set-up of a speak easy, but it's own popularity has killed the vibe of something underground. It is always filled with second-jobbers and banker bros but is a good time if you want to sway a bit to Queen and other popular fun tunes. Sometimes you may not get in!

      Blu Jaz Cafe
      I've come here to watch open mic poetry nights and listen to live jazz bands. It is an amazing hub that supports the creative scene in Singapore. If you want to see what lies beneath corporate Singapore, I recommend checking the schedule of what's on here. Though, don't recommend the food (the falafels are dry as). Good vibes ftw.





      Skinnies Lounge
      This is basically an American college bar. There are hockey jerseys and hand drawn pics on the wall, a ceiling filled with a diverse collection of dick pics, beer pong outside and Oasis on repeat. Always teeming with the younger 20 somethings of Singapore.

      Little Part Cafe
      On a street with heritage protected shophouses (see intro photo), this tiny cafe bar has a wonderful sunset vibe, with fresh green breeze and lovely reprieve from city life. I would recommend walk around the neighbourhood to get selfies with the insta-worthy houses and relax your tired vanity with a cold glass of white! Food is meant to be decent too, with some vegan options available!

      The End

      Some Notes

      • This list is not exhaustive. Everyone has their spots. This blog is ultimately about us sharing, so do let me know if you have any recommendations or feedback.
      • It takes me on average about 6 months to write a blog post because the more money I've earned the less soul I have (jk i hope). So if you want to see Singapore on a more regular and daily basis, I highly recommend the lazy man's version of blogging (instagram). The videos are daily loves of the city.
      • To filter all the irrelevant shiz, use the hashtag #lilfelrocksSG for my latest recommendations. There is a lot deep stuff about vintage shopping in Singapore and pretty trees.
      • Next post should be about favourite food spots in town, with a VEGAN lens woo. Please send me some recommendations so I have more than zero to write about. 

      Other Travel Guides in Asia you Might Dig

      I spent four years in this city. Here is an extensive list of how not to be a sucka tourist. 

      Vintage Threads in Jakarta
      Discovered a cool market filled with hipsterpreneurs

      I burned out working in tech, here's what I did about it


      Cool Tunes

      Always hear this at the French cafe, Merci Marcel, next to my office and makes me want to raise my nips to the sun.

      Indie Guide Thailand: Koh Phi Phi

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      Backpacking the Islands: Drink your Face off in Paradise 


      Is Phi Phi for Me (Me)? 

      There are only 3 reasons to come to the Thai island of Koh Phi Phi. You either want to a) rip yourself off with overpriced diving b) pretend to be Leo and fatten up your FB photo count with The Beach albums that no one cares about or c)  drown your face in buckets of Thai whiskey, sleep all day and then do it again, repeat, repeat, repeat.


      From my scientific research based wholly on personal affinities and anecdotal evidence, I've concluded that 83% of people come because of the insane party vibe. They then partake in other more wholesome activities merely to avoid being the King of Absolute Waste-Casedom slash validate their existence as  real human beings with feelings that don't reek of booze.

      Came here a couple years ago with mon ex amour. Loved it. Came back this year. 

      This spot on the west side of Thailand truly is awesome though. The island is tiny with no cars. Everything is jammed packed together creating an amazing village community with the streets lined with cute dive instructors manning the shops, beach bars, restaurants and Thai street stalls. The downside to these close quarters is that it is hard to escape the nightly madness and parties on the beach so if you are coming here with your rosy cheeked toddler and vacay fun, for the love of good parenting, don't.

      And like a lot of the Thai islands, the local culture has been eroded/evolved to feel more like a deep fried Euro-nugget rather than the vibrant Asian island I imagine it once was. Visiting this drunken foreigner Disneyland may be your bucket of alcohol, or it may not be. The one thing everyone can agree on is that it is outstandingly beautiful. Depending on your tolerance for inebriated 20 something year olds and your affinity for beauty, it may be worth a visit.

      For me and most people I know, it definitely is. But, hell, give me a couple years and I will probably be pushing cougar slash creepy-old-lady-without-a-life territory (recently turned 25, it hurts more than arthritis to see all these 19 year old Brits!)


      Phi Phi Friends that we met up with in Koh Phangan. Party doesn't stop in the Islands. 

      Anyways, everyone has their own recommendations on what's the best on the island. If you're my friend (Caro!!) and are brave enough to face daylight here are mine.

      How Long to Go For


      • 4 days is ideal. You can party hard and see all the sites in this amount of time. Personally, I stayed for 7 days and definitely started to get antsy and bored. Partying is groovy but I don't like just sleeping all day or lounging on a tiny beach that is shitty to swim in. Plus, there is no beach volleyball. Others have stayed 10 days or a month and just love it. Depends on what you're looking for.


      Where to Stay


      • Mr. Local Dorm. Really good air condition and an amazing place to meet people. Everyone from that hostel has rejoined in other parts of Thailand. The management is laid back and as far as Phi Phi goes, it's not that expensive. Bad sides? Toilets block quite a bit and are not that clean. Shower pressure not hard either. If you have a good budget and want luxury, this is not for you! The social aspect is its best quality. People I met there ended up all meeting in Koh Phangan and having more mental moments! 
      300 Baht/night.


      Cost of Living


      • Expect to spend 800-1000 Baht/day3 cheap meals + dorm rent + 2 buckets of alcohol) and then more when you want to do the fun stuff besides slink around Slinkys.  If we use chicken fried rice for our price comparison, in Bangkok it's 20-30 Baht on the street and the cheapest you can get it here is 60. In Koh Phangan Haad Rin it's 50. The cheapest dorms are around 300 Baht, whereas around Thailand you can get it for 100. Diving is more, alcohol is more. The reason being because electricity and rent is extremely expensive here. So locals are not trying to rip you off, but just the cost of living for everyone is higher. The price of paradise, I suppose. 

      Things to Do


      • Hike to the Viewpoint. About a 30 minute walk to the top of Koh Phi Phi. It's beautiful and not too physically taxing. Worth it for your Facebook vanity. Also, it's free!

      It's Leo!! Or..just my German colleague with a girl's name, Robin

      • Camping Trip in Maya Bay (THE Beach!). Most people just do the day trip with snorkelling and a couple hours on The Beach but that sucks because tourists storm the site like tweens at a Bieber concert. Kind of lose the dumbfounding effects of the raw beauty. Best way to do it is cough up the dough and camp out, singing songs around a 'fire' drinking and laughing and ultimately falling asleep to the waves and watching the sun turn the water sparkling purple to blue in the morning. Holy shizzle. TIP: The only thing I recommend is bringing your own sleeping bag and pillow because the equipment SUCKS. Didn't sleep a wink cuz my bag was damp and full of sand. Ugh, I'm a princess blah blah, whatever.  Also, if you're in a couple, defo do this! I wallowed in my (normally loved) singledom and wished someone would ask me to marry them. The Beach Effect. 


      Price: 2500 Baht with free meals, 2 free buckets, snorkelling.


      • Kickbox for Booze. Get in the ring at Reggae Bar and weigh the weight of your balls. Having no formal training and experience I merely wanted know what it was like to punch another person in the face. You know, the dreams where you try and try to punch someone but you keep missing? Well, I had had enough. It was awesome and hard and exhilarating. TIP: Don't drink before hand for risk of puking (ahem, Chanine!). Even if you don't drink, you risk puking. Basically, someone is blowing chunks. But hus is the consequence of having your head beat in repeatedly. Watch my video against a giant butch British beast!



      • Lounge at the Rooftop Banana Bar. One of the only rooftop bars in Koh Phi Phi, you can watch movies nightly at 7 pm and/or get super mellow there daily. They sell stuff over the bar. The Mexican food is great for munching. 


      Things Not to do


      • Diving certification.  The diving is better in Koh Phi Phi but it is also hella expensive. It's about 12,000 Baht and that doesn't include your accommodation. I recommend doing it in Koh Tao (like I did) for 9000 Baht + lodging and then doing fun dives in Phi Phi. The island is losing a lot of business because of its high prices that are all fixed. Hopefully in the future they will realize that poor backpackers are not willing to front that dough.

      Conclusion

      Koh Phi Phi is one of the most expensive places in Thailand but also one of the most partylicious. If you are backpacking in Thailand for months or merely there for a couple weeks, this should definitely be one of your stops. There ain't much else to do there except drink and the things I've listed above, but hell is it worth it. Get in and get out quickly with some of the best memories of your life slash trip in Thailand. Bon chance, backpackers!

      And please, if you have any advice, recommendations on hostels or things to do, please let the rest of us know! 

      Music: Beachside Bonheur from Cali


      This is the perfect music for summer and beach-time bonheur  by Ko Ko. First found off my amazing Frenchie friends' music blog, Les Radis Sanglants, I have since fallen in love. Whether you are in Thailand, Indonesia or Toronto, Float brings the soul of summer joy! Cheese cheese, shut it and listen.

      Download: Float- Ko Ko.mp3 

      10 Most Romantic and Rotten Hook-Up Spots in the World

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      Three years in a Long Distance Relationship means I've traveled quite a bit in order to get a piece of ace. If you've taken my advice in Three Ways to Survive an LDR, you've made international booty calls the most exciting aspects of your lives by exotic dating. Being that it's Valentine's day and all I've decided to list the most romantic places I've felt the wings of love flutter in my chest, but also the black swan twin, the LEAST romantic spots to have some tongue slug wars in your mouth. Do I not sound that romantic? That's because as I speak I'm wearing a bra on my head. Meet prude Pope Jean Bra III .





      This bra is a present, not from a hot Ryan Gosling dream lover, not even a nerdy dork face with a missing tooth. Nope, my one and only Valentine's Day present is from my mom. So if I seem a little unenthused this Valentine's please refer back to this picture and cut me some slack. Word?

      I've been lucky enough to have some of the most badass romantic Valentine's days from various relations, but since this is a travel blog, I'm only focusing on my old LDR that necessitated a buttload of traveling. Okay, carrying on.

      Let's start with the bad spots for all us metaphorical Bra-heads this Valentine's Day.

      4 Least Romantic Spots


      1.  Nevada Desert in the Summer

      This may look like the makings of a hipsterotica film but in reality I felt like my skin was slowly being ripped inwards and trying to flip itself inside out, one prickly pore at a time. Frack, it was damn hot. Not to take you on a train to Dramz Central or anything, but for the first time in my life I felt like I would have fainted from the heat (and this was after living in Thailand too!). Basically, if you want to get it on, avoid places where the idea of body heat makes you more uncomfortable than a Serg Gainsbourg and Whitney Houston interview.


      2. Highway on a Motorbike without Helmets, Guangzhou China. 

      Is this tantamount to the thrill and terror of the thuglife? I felt at any moment I was going to be killed, racing along the highway at breakneck speeds with no helmet and no chance to speak over the roar of the motor. Well, perhaps some romance can be derived out of our inner city adventure, a sort of Chinese Jack and Rose moment. "If you ever let go of me, I will poo myself." My response to amour. "Okay calm down, I'll never let go."




      3. The Thai-Myanmar Border

      While this may be one of the coolest experiences I've ever had in Thailand, it is also probably one of the least romantic too.  We had just met the Thai Military stationed to fortify the dangerous and heavily populated border crossing. Somehow we made buds with them and they offered us a tent to stay on the mountain with them overlooking the two countries. Sounds epic right. It was a seriously "authentic" experience to get wasted with military on local booze, exchange stories in our sign languages because no one spoke each others language but we were so passionate we kept trying and eat some food from the local shop. However, sleeping in a tent on lumpy ground with the Thai soldiers all around..probably not the most conducive to loverness. BUT WHATEVER IT WAS AWESOME. Can't wait to blog more about my northern Thailand adventures!




      4. Cairo, Egypt

      Any magic you attempt to cultivate is quickly squashed by people trying to rip you off at every corner. Authenticity, honesty and local charm were bazooka-ed out the window.  For the first time in my life I disliked a place. Even (more like especially) while viewing the awesomest wonder of the world with my amour at the time we feared that they were going to take his horse off and pressure him for more money. Oh lovers of the world, do not do Cairo for a romantic getaway. Find more stress free hoods!




      Come kids, now let's grate some cheese!

      6 Most Romantic Spots


      1. Ocean Highway, California. 

       "Camping along the Ocean Highway driving through Cali (below). After driving for hours and being rejected from every hotel in the mountains (it was Labour Day so all them Americans decided to flock to the hills and use up all the hotels!) we decide give up hope on civilization.  We wanted to drive all night, but the truth was that if we didn't find somewhere to stay it was possible that I or Paul would fall asleep while driving and lead us and our 3 bros to our watery grave on the ocean highway. So we whip out our sleeping bags and sleep on a cliff. Call it dangerous but it was one of the best and adventurous nights of my life (If you're a Canadian who goes camping, you'll understand). If the world was my bedroom then imagine one wall was tall looming mountains, and the other was the vast expanse of the Pacific. Right beside my bed was not a nightstand but 700 m drop into jagged rocks and ocean . My ceiling was inundated with glow-in-the-dark like sticker stars except my Orion's Belt was the real one. And right beside me (or under me) was the person I loved most in the world". (Read more in How to Love Life: Take a Road Trip with Best Friends)



      2. Picnicking on the Tundra, Greenland

      We were not alone but that was okay because with us we had a chef who prepared fresh bison steaks, which we drank with delicious wine. Afterwards, we snuck off to explore the ice sheets in the background, rolled around in the moss a bit (not like that! But from jumping off rocks), and found a cool waterfall! Nothing gets my heart pumping faster than watching Ryan Gosling in Blue Valentine than having a sneaky, wonderful adventure!




      3. Sparkling Secret Beach, Hong Kong

      Darkness had started to descend and we had no plausible way out of the deserted, secret beach area without venturing into the jungle without a light. What do we do? Rip off our clothes and run into the water, obvi. In the end we had to stay in some random Chinese people's homes who thankfully let us in. It was only in the middle of the night did the most amazing thing happen to us. I snuck out with my blanket after the amour started to doze off and lay on the beach alone under the stars. I was visiting him on his year abroad and my heart was heavier than my butt after dim sum at the thought of leaving him again so soon.  When the amour saw me gone from bed, he came to join me on the beautiful empty beach and laid with me under my blanket. All of a sudden the water started to sparkle, like Edward Cullen's face in the sun! I thought there must be a light somewhere but there wasn't. It was a sort of algae in the water and they sparkled and dazzled for us as we held each other tightly. Lying there together in that moment in a foreign world, with beauty enveloping our senses made all the sadness seem so far away. It was perfection. I wish more than anything that lovers everywhere can experience this beach and its sparkling algae.






      4.  Dangerous rock in the ocean, Costa Brava Spain

      Grabbed our picnic blanket, some crazy Spanish food, some wine and we said "*uck it, we're not eating in a restaurant." Finding the furthest and most isolated spot to have our picnic was synonomous with love and adventure.  Everything was new and exciting, from our feelings, to the food, to the land. We were in a quaint little coastal town that I also need to blog about because it was an absolute hidden gem for avoiding tourists and finding beauty. Drunk off our blossoming love and probably a healthy helping of wine, we started singing at the top of our lungs and went skinny dipping in the clear blue albeit cold water! Life couldn't have been better than that moment. Finding beautiful and adventure picnic spots were critical!







      5. End of the World, Vladivostok Siberia Russia

      After more than a week of riding the Trans-Siberian Railway from Moscow, we had finally arrived to the end of Asia -- Vladivostok. Sitting at the top of the world in that moment was beautiful. The world was just stretched before us for infinity. We had crossed a continent, and something in my heart ached from the beauty of it all, and the person I had done it with. These moments made the Long Distance Relationship seem less horrible...





      6. Any Bridge, Paris France

      If there's one thing you need to do while in France it's kiss a French boy/girl on a bridge. Whether it be during the day when the Seine winks playfully at you in the sunlight or at night when the Eiffel Tower can be seen sparkling, grab someone and kiss them. Even while living there, the romance of it never, ever escaped me. But be careful!  You will feel like you are falling in love! I know people think the romance of Paris is overhyped a bit, but I kid you not, I felt physical heart pains from how wonderful it can be, (read more about How I Hated Paris..at First) but it took some time. 

      There should be no compromise in this. No one, not even Hannibal Lecter could remain unmoved by the romanticism of this city. I know I'm being a cliche so I'll give you the most romantic bridge in Paris: Pont de la Tournelle (at sunset). See the white and greys of Notre Dame fade to pinks and purples as the sun sinks into the Seine. Please, if you are in Paris today, please do that for me. Kiss like no one is watching! 






      I have to admit something. I took off my Bra Hat. As I wrote about these amazing memories from my past, I  evolved into a new species of human with a larger heart that had wings poking out the side! I fell in love with Valentine's day again. I know some of these stories are sort of crazy, but hopefully it inspires you to make the most of your special day, no matter where you are in the world! One thing I learned from the Long Distance Relationship is that you have to create the opportunities for your love. And while you may not be booking a flight to Greenland, do something special, have fun, laugh and love today.

      Happy Valentine's Day Everyone! And thank you, World, for snapping me out of my grump-grinch Vday blues. ps. Get laid!!!

      pps. Sorry for bad grammar and mistakes! Did this in a rush with work in 4 hours!

      If you're lucky enough to be in love, share with us the most romantic spots in the world you've been /experiences you've ever had! 


      Read Also:





      Moving to Indonesia

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      On the Road Again..to Adulthood



      You know something is fundamentally wrong with a person when you walk into their room and are affronted by the eagerness of their stationary suitcases, like a bunch of sparkly-eyed  children anxious to go to the zoo based on empty 'maybe later' parental promises. Their suitcases squat impatient and restless in the corner, untouched after six months of piling dust yet somehow, always ready to go. The Germans have a word for this sickness (they always have a word), it's called fernweh. It essentially means the opposite of home sickness -- a yearning to go far away. I got back from Paris eight months ago, yet I refused to put the suitcases in storage, decorate my room, effectively never truly settle in Toronto. I knew with a certainty merited only by raw ambition, that I would leave soon. So goddamn what if didn't know when and I didn't know why. Well guess what, World? It's finally happened! I have a sweet job offer.







      If you know me at all, you know I'm not a backpacker. Though (self) diagnosed with fernweh, I refused to drain ressources on infinity travelling expeditions, the ones where people quit life without a plan, wander aimlessly through India for spirituality, blah blah barf (Spoiler alert: 7 yrs later I India-ed). Maybe it's the immigrant/ first gen problems haunting me, but it's a privileged path that I've never been interested in taking (mostly because I'm poor and it's stupid to yearn for what one can't obtain, but also seems rather dull). Instead, I studied international relations in university to give myself the travel fishing rod.  Frack drifting like a drunk from one bar island to the next forever, I want to roll up my sleeves and get down and hella dirty with the places I go.

      Female backpackers at their worst

      Which brings me to the excitement of the job. I've got offered the position of Content Marketing Manager for a fashion start-up in Jakarta, Indonesia. Yes, I was there before but it was as an intern for the UN. Remember rat alley and my dog life? This time I'm on salary, baby! I'm stoked to rock Jakarta like I never could have before with a 300 USD/month stipend, also for the chance to really get to know the rest of the country. But seriously, this time it's not about the travel. The job seems awesome: blogging, working with bloggers, developing social media strategies, attending baller fashion events to develop content etc. My beating heart and the butterflies in my stomach are sumo wrestling in my body for my attention. When I think about it, I feel like bustin' out dropkicks on my bed from excitement (and sheer coolness of dropkicks, obvi).



      But here's the thing. I LEAVE SO SOON, say one week perhaps? There's so much to do before I take off (eh). My close friend, James, can't fathom how I can uproot myself so quickly. Neither can I frankly, I'm stressing out. Also, I'm looking for someone to share a badass apartment with in Jakarta. Looking for roommates and apts from abroad are hella hard tasks. If you are moving to Jakarta in the next month, let me know! Or  pass this along to friends. I'm looking in Kuningan, Gatot Subroto area.

      I'm stoked to come back to Jakarta especially for a job I know will be awesome. Look forward to seeing all the old posse that remained but I have a wretched sadness that feels like indigestion from leaving everyone I love in Toronto. Wah face.  Next post: Getting Ready to Leave. 

      Are you picking up and leaving? Do you prefer backpacking or expat living? Tips for making it less painful? Share your brain with us!

      Also follow on Facebook and Twitter for important everything to travelling as a young badass and lovin' life updates.




      See Also:
      Travelling Junkie Graduate Settles Down in Jakarta


      Indie Guides to Indonesia



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